2007 Ford Taurus

I bought a 2007 ford Taurus SEL from a dealership Oct ,2020 3 months after having we pulling up to a stop light and it was like the car wanted to take off by it's self and then when the light turned green we started to drive and it just shut off in the middle of traffic we had to get out and push it to the side almost got hit by the car behind us and the on coming cars I've had it serviced for tune and oil changes fuil system flush everything and they can never find anything wrong with it but a miscellaneous leak that they can not find where it's coming from and now we'll first in Sept we came home one day ate dinner then we were going to go to movies we got in the car and the car would not start the alarm sound then everything went dim and auto theft blinked and car shut off we tried starting it it would not start finally got a jump it started and a little bit and then in on November 3rd we went to leave again and it would not start it was making a ticking sound then we had to get a jump and it start and we got in the car left got around the corner then all the lights on dash board like flashed and everything went dark and car shut off had to get it jumped it started but lights never came back on and so we took it to shop next day told them what happened they could not find nothing wrong and then December 15 same thing and then long story short we had it hooked up to machine and they said something about ptu at the shop I don't know what's going on I did some research of my own and there seems to be alot of simulator issues with other people's Taurus as well

Severely rusted brake line to the driver side real brake ruptured and caused loss of brake function and emptying of the single brake fluid reservoir. I cannot currently find the ruptured line segment, but a portion of the other rear brake line was similarly rusted prompting preventative repair. Fortunately, my wife was driving at low speed and was able to maneuver the car into a parking spot. An employee at the O'Reilly store where I bought replacement parts thought the state of the ruptured line meant that it came from a 1980s model vehicle rather than a 2007 model. No one in an official capacity has inspected the brake line. My wife did not report nor have I observed any brake warning lamps during my repairs (the brake lamp does illuminate when the parking brake is engaged). Rusting occurred due to trapped road debris in a brake line support tray under driver's seat. I will include a photograph of the removed tray and a brake line portion that came from it. Close inspection of the photograph can see the debris and rust in the tray and significant rust on the non-failed brake line also restrained in it. I will also include a (scanned) receipt from O'Reilly documenting the repair parts and date.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Taurus. The contact stated that while the vehicle was receiving routine service, she was notified that the camber toe adjustment kit, suspension, and steering needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 163,000.

Basically I was driving and stopped and my house and while in ideal the wiring under the hood and under the fender into the dash all started to melt together shorting the systems so I tried to repair and replace the parts due to being a used vehicle and didn't know how to report this until now. So I cut the melted chunk of wiring harnesses out and trashed it. But I stopped due to the inability to find any replacement harnesses from Ford or mercury so now my car has been sitting for several months. I have only been able to find melted harnesses on junk yard cars. Ford used poor quality 16 gauge wiring that the outer coating became brittle and easily frayed. Every wiring harness I've seen has bad spots from wires melting or breaking and corroding. I'm my case the wiring melted causing the cooling system to stop working properly and almost damaged or may have damaged my engine. I don't have full coverage so I am forced to park it and do what I can myself which has made me lose my job and ruined my life. Please do look into this I'm sure more people have the same issue just check a junk yard and you'll see what I mean. Thank you for your time I will try to provide any further information or help if needed anyway I can to make sure someone doesn't get hurt.

AS I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD MY 2007 FORD TAURUS HAS STARTED TO ACCELERATE ON IT'S OWN. ON JULY 9 THIS INCIDENT OCCURRED AND I WAS INVOLVED IN A CAR ACCIDENT HITTING A TREE. WHEN I START MY CAR IT WILL REV UP TO 2 RPM AND I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS TO BRING IT BACK DOWN. MY MECHANIC HAS CHANGED THE O2 SENSOR AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS. I BELIEVE THIS ISSUE IS FAIRLY COMMON BUT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. I HAVE TO RIDE MY BREAKS TO EVEN STAY STATIONARY AT A STOP LIGHT BECAUSE MY CAR WILL ACCELERATE UP TO 20 MPH IN A MATTER OF THIRTY SECONDS. I GOT LUCKY THAT MY CHILDREN WEREN'T WITH ME AT THE TIME I CRASHED I WAS ALSO LUCKY THAT I HAVEN'T READ ENDED ANYONE. NOW I AM SITTING WITH A VERY UNSAFE CARE AND STUCK PLEASE HELP ME FIX THE ISSUE.

MY 2007 FORD TAURUS WAS UP TO 3000 RPM'S AND MY CAR WASN'T LETTING ME DRIVE FASTER THAN 19 MPH. WHEN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE FAR WOULD DO IT REV HIGHER AND JOLT FORWARD REALLY FAST. I TURNED MY CAR OFF AND BEGAN DRIVING NORMAL AGAIN EXCEPT THE FACT MY TRANSMISSION WAS STILL WORKING WAY TOO HARD FOR THE SPEED I WAS GOING (3000 RPM'S AT 45 MPH). THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME 4 TIMES IN THE PAST 2 DAYS NOW. I'M GUESSING IT'S MY TRANSMISSION AND MY CAR DOESN'T EVEN HAVE 146,XXX MILES ON IT AND NEVER HAVE I BEAT ON IT! THIS PROBLEM FOLLOWS MY DEAD BATTERY CELL AND STARTER RELAY PROBLEM. I HAVE READ SOMEWHERE ELSE THAT THESE TRANSMISSIONS GO OUT VERY SOON. I REALLY THINK THEY SHOULD BE RECALLED. I DON'T HAVE MONEY TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION OR VEHICLE! NO REASON THIS TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE BAD AFTER 145,XXX MILES!!