2010 Nissan Altima

AS APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT, BRAKES WERE DIFFICULT TO "GRAB" AND TOO EXTRA PRESSURE. STOP WAS RATHER SLOW, AND ANTI-LOCK BRAKES APPEARED TO KICK IN (BY ROUGH, STACCATO SHAKING TYPICAL OF THEM APPLYING). ONLY BY PRESSING DOWN AS HARD AS I COULD DID I PREVENT SMASHING INTO THE CAR AHEAD OF ME. DRY, SUNNY FLORIDA CONDITIONS, NO SAND OR SLIPPING AT ALL, JUST SLOW, ODD BRAKING. THEN THE ENGINE SEEMED TO BE REVVING A BIT - FASTER IDLING THAN NORMAL WHILE AT THE STOP LIGHT. WE ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT SPEEDING HERE, OR SUDDEN BRAKING, JUST A NORMAL APPROACH TO A KNOWN STOP SIGN OR LIGHT. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. THIS HAPPENED A COUPLE TIMES, THEN DID NOT REPEAT FOR A COUPLE MONTHS. THEN, WHEN IT DID REPEAT, I ASKED THE DEALER ABOUT IT. ALWAYS AT A STOP LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, ALWAYS IN DANGER OF SMASHING INTO THE CAR AHEAD OF ME OR ENTERING TOO FAR INTO THE INTERSECTION IF I COULD NOT CONTROL THE STOP. THEY WERE COMPLETELY PUZZLED, AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE IT BECAUSE, AS I SAID, IT IS VERY SPORADIC. AN ISPECTION DID NOT REVEAL ANYTHING. THEY LAUGHED AT ME, SAYING IT WAS TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES TO KICK IN IF THERE IS NO SKIDDING. OK, SO WHAT WAS IT THEN? IT SURE AS HECK SEEMED LIKE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES! (I COME FROM UP NORTH AND HAVE EXPERIENCED ANTI-LOCK BRAKES KICKING IN ON SNOW COVERED ROADS...) SINCE THE INITIAL REOCCURRENCE, IT WENT SEVERAL MONTHS, ABOUT SIX, WITH NO ISSUES OR REPEATS, THEN JUST THE OTHER DAY, IT DID IT AGAIN TWICE MORE. I SUSPECT IT COULD BE SOMETHING TO DO WITH COMPUTER CONTROLS, RATHER THAN THE BRAKES THEMSELVES, BUT I AM NO MECHANIC.

ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS THE VEHICLE HAS FAILED TO START WHEN THE BRAKE WAS DEPRESSED. AT THE PRESENT TIME THE ABS LIGHT, SLIP AND VDC ARE NOW ILLUMINATED AFTER DRIVING THE CAR FOR A FEW MINUTES. IT IS MY UNDERSTANDING THAT THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BLINK IF THERE IS A PROBLEM DRIVING IN WET ROAD CONDITIONS OR IT IS SLIPPERY. I HAVE READ NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS FROM OTHER OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING. IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES IN ORDER TO GET THE CAR TO TURNOVER AND START. I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN NEEDS TO INVESTIGATE THIS ISSUE FURTHER AND ISSUE A RECALL FOR THESE VEHICLES.

MY BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON AND I TOPPED IT OFF WITH OIL AND IT WENT HOME. THIS WAS ON SUNDAY. I TOOK IT IN MONDAY TO HAVE IT CHECKED AND THE MASTER CYLINDER WAS LEAKING AND I HAD IT REPLACED FOR $612.73. I CALLED NISSAN AS I FOUND THERE WERE SOME COMPLAINTS AND FOUND A SITE WHERE NISSAN WAS REIMBURSING CUSTOMERS. THEY CHECKED MY VIN NUMBER AND TOLD ME MY CAR WAS NOT ELIGIBLE. THIS IS TOO NEW OF A CAR WITH HARDLY ANY MILES ON IT. NOW THEY SAY MY FRONT STRUTS NEED REPLACING. I NEVER HAD TO REPLACE STRUTS ON MY OLD MAZDA UNTIL IT HAD VERY HIGH MILEAGE ON IT. I AM NOT PLEASED. *TR

THE CAR FAILED TO START BECAUSE THE BRAKE SWITCH AND THE ENTIRE HARNESS SUB FAILED. I HAD TO TOW AWAY THE CAR TO THE NEAREST NISSAN SHOWROOM AND WAS CHARGED $440 TO REPLACE HARNESS-SUB, SWITCH ASSY STO, BAND HOSE PLUS LABOR. PS: THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM BUT NISSAN WONT REFUND MY MONEY. HOW CAN A VEHICLE JUST UNDER 50K FAIL FOR SUCH A THING IF NOT FOR A BAD FACTORY HARNESS. *TR

SEVERAL TIMES OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS AND EVERYDAY FOR THE PAST WEEK, THE CAR WILL NOT START DURING IGNITION DUE TO THE INABILITY TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE. THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT TO START IS TO REPEATEDLY HIT THE BRAKES WHILE PRESSING THE START BUTTON. IT NEVER CONSISTENTLY WORKS BUT EVENTUALLY STARTS. AFTER STARTING, THE ABS, VDC, AND SLIP WARNING LIGHTS ARE ILLUMINATED. THERE HAVE BEEN MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THE SAME THING HAPPENING WITH THIS MODEL FROM OTHER OWNERS. THIS POSES A SERIOUS RISK TO HEALTH PARTICULARLY IN TIMES WHERE ONE MAY NEED TO LEAVE IMMEDIATELY. MORE OFTEN, IT IS AN EXTREME INCONVENIENCE. THE DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENTS WANT TO CHARGE OVER $500 TO REPAIR SOMETHING THAT IS CLEARLY DEFECTIVE AND SYSTEMATIC. PLEASE DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS AS MANY ALTIMA OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME FRUSTRATION THAT I HAVE ENDURED. *TR

I HAVE READ NUMEROUS ACCOUNTS OF THE NISSAN ALTIMA BEING UNABLE TO START WHEN THE REQUIRED BRAKE/START BUTTON IS USED. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED AND THE START BUTTON PUSHED, THE ACC LIGHT COMES ON THEN, IF PUSHED AGAIN, THE ON LIGHT COMES ON (OVER THE START BUTTON). THEN WHEN PUSHED AGAIN, THE SYSTEM SHUTS OFF. BY TRYING SEVERAL TIMES AND PUMPING THE BRAKE, THE CAR WILL EVENTUALLY START. SINCE THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED NUMEROUS TIMES, THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A DEFECT IN THE CAR'S PARTS/SYSTEM. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO HAVE NISSAN REPLACE THE FAULTY PARTS FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A RESIDENTIAL ROAD AND MY STABILITY CONTROL TURNED OFF ON ITS OWN AND I COULD NOT TURN IT BACK ON. AT THE TIME THAT IT TURNED OFF MY PARKING BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON, EVENTUALLY IT TURNED OFF BUT FLASHED ON TWO MORE TIMES AS I WAS DRIVING UP HILL. I WAS NEVER ABLE TO TURN THE VDC (ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL) BACK ON. *TR

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA - MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA WITH PUSH BUTTON START FAILED TO START. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL SEEMED FINE. I HAD JUST PREVIOUSLY NOTICED THE ABS, VDC AND SLIP WARNING LIT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER CHECKING FUSES, KEY FOB BATTERIES, ETC. I ATTEMPTED TO PUMP THE BRAKES SEVERAL TIMES AND IT FINALLY STARTED. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $550.00. HE SEEMED TO KNOW WITH OUT OF EVEN LOOKING WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. WHEN I QUESTIONED HIM ABOUT SUCH AN EXPENSIVE SWITCH, HE ONLY SAID "THIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH THIS MODEL." THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED AT NISSAN'S EXPENSE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. AFTER THE PUSH TO START BUTTON WAS INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER BEING DRIVEN AFTER APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VDS, SLIP, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS. THE FAILURE OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH WAS DEFECTIVE, WHICH PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

WHEN YOU TRY TO START VEHICLE YOU PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOESN'T GO DOWN 1/16 OF AN INCH. THE BRAKE LIGHTS WONT EVEN COME ON. IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON IT WILL ONLY GO TO THE ACCESSORY THEN OFF. WHEN I ASKED SERVICE MANAGER AT NELSON NISSAN IN BROKEN ARROW, OK AND I QUOTE "HE SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE KEY ON BEFORE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD COME ON"... I AM LIKE REALLY!!! THE BRAKE LIGHTS UMM NO THEY SHOULD COME ON ANYTIME YOU PUSH THE BRAKE IF THE KEY IS ON OR NOT. PLEASE HELP US AMERICAN'S AND OTHER HARD WORKING TAX PAYING PEOPLE GET OUR CARS FIXED. WE PAID GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY FOR THEM AND NOW ALL WE HAVE IN A LEMON IN ARE GARAGE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME, GOD BLESS YOU! AND GOD BLESS AMERICA!!! *TR