2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNDISCLOSED SPEED, THE VEHICLE SHUDDERED AND STALLED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER THE VEHICLE STALLED, THE SERVICE TRANSMISSION WARNING LIGHT BRIEFLY ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CVT TRANSMISSION AND PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE BUT DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 116,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT UPON ACCELERATING FROM A COMPLETE STOP, THE VEHICLE WOULD STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HESITATED INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT DISCOVERED A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN(TIN-15-23-001) WHICH HE LINKED TO THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO (YORK MITSUBISHI 1301 ROOSEVELT AVE, YORK, PA 17404) TO BE DIAGNOSED WHICH WAS STILL PENDING. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 45,000.

I HAVE A 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT I BROUGHT BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT. IN THE SUMMER OF 2019, THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT WOULD COME ON AFTER MY KEY WAS REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION. .ON 12/19/19, MY CAR WOULD NOT TURN OVER TO START AND THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT STAYED ON. I HAD CAR TOWED TO THE DEALER. DEALER SAID KEY CYLINDER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND MY BATTERY WAS DEAD. I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND TOLD THEM THIS WAS THE 4TH BATTERY I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE WITH THIS CAR. I BOUGHT NEW BATTERY AND DEALER ORDERED PART. THE KEY CYLINDER PART CAME IN AND WAS REPLACED ON 01/09/20. ON 01/20/20, THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AND MY CAR WOULD NOT START. TOWED CAR BACK TO SAME DEALER WHO FOUND KEY CYLINDER WAS INCORRECTLY INSTALLED AND REINSTALLED CYLINDER. TODAY 01/22/20, THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT CAME BACK ON. I'M WAITING FOR A CALL BACK TODAY FROM THE SAME DEALER TO SEE IF THERE'S ANYTHING ELSE THAT CAN BE DONE. THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT PREVENTS YOU FROM LOCKING THE DOORS NORMALLY, WHILE SITTING IN THE CAR, I HAD TO LOCK ALL DOORS BEFORE REMOVING KEY FROM IGNITION. THE "REMOVE KEY" LIGHT TURNS ON WHEN I REMOVE KEY. THEN AFTER I EXIT THE CAR AND CLOSE THE DRIVER DOOR, I HAVE TO USE MY KEY TO LOCK MY DRIVER DOOR. OTHERWISE I CAN'T LOCK ALL OF MY CAR DOORS WITH THE KEY OR KEY FOB AND HAVE TO GET BACK IN THE RESTART CAR AND START CYCLE OVER. I ASKED DEALER TO CHECK ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BECAUSE I HAVE REPLACED THE CAR BATTERY 4 TIMES ON THIS CAR ALREADY WHICH IS RIDICULOUS AND COSTS ME MONEY SINCE IT'S NOT COVERED IN MY CAR WARRANTY OR EXTENDED WARRANTY. I ONLY HAVE LESS THEN 34,000 MILES ON MY CAR. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON REMEDYING THIS ISSUE?? DID I PURCHASE A LEMON?

I BOUGHT MY VEHICLE TOWARDS THE END OF OCTOBER WITH LESS THAN 40000 MILES AND I KEEP ENCOUNTERING AN ACCELERATION ISSUE AND HIGH ENGINE RPM, THE ISSUES PERIODICALLY 'RESOLVE' THEM SELF ONLY TO COME BACK A LITTLE FURTHER DOWN THE ROAD, THE ISSUES I ENCOUNTER AREN'T EXACTLY THE SAME BUT I THINK THEY ARE VERY CLOSELY RELATED/CONNECTED TO EACH OTHER; ACCELERATING FROM LOW SPEED (0-30): I TEND TO NOTICE AN ACCELERATION PROBLEM AROUND 0-30 MPH WHERE I HAVE MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL AND THE VEHICLE IS MOVING AND IS ACCELERATING, ACCELERATION IS VERY, VERY SLOW AND IT FEELS AS THOUGH SOMETHING IN/ON MY VEHICLE IS GIVING WHAT I CAN ONLY DESCRIBE AS 'RESISTANCE' TO ACCELERATE, THE FEELING IS VERY WEIRD AND I HAVE NEVER FELT ANYTHING QUITE LIKE IT AND I LACK THE VOCABULARY TO TRULY EXPLAIN WHAT THE ISSUE FEELS LIKE BUT I DO KNOW FOR CERTAIN THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG. HIGH ENGINE SPEEDS DURING 0-~60 MPH ACCELERATION: WHEN I NEED TO ACCELERATE TO MERGE INTO TRAFFIC GOING 45-65 MPH (ACCELERATING FROM 0-30 MPH RANGE) MY ENGINE SPEED APPROACHES 6000 RPM BUT NEVER ENTERS THE RED AREA BEHIND THE GAUGE, I OFTEN NEED TO ACCELERATE FROM THE 0-30 MPH RANGE TO 45-65 MPH RANGE TO JUMP ONTO A HIGHWAY OR FREEWAY AND MY ENGINE SPEEDS GET MUCH HIGHER THAN ANYTHING I HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED BEFORE. I SUSPECT THE AUTOMATIC SHIFTING MECHANISM IS BROKEN OR IS MADE POORLY. I HAVE BROUGHT MY VEHICLE INTO A GENUINE MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP AND HAD THEM RUN A COMPLETE DIAGNOSTIC, EVEN A DIAGNOSTIC ON MY TRANSMISSION WITH EVERYTHING COMING BACK FINE. I HONESTLY DON'T EVEN KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE IS BUT I HAVE DOCUMENTS VERIFYING THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH MY VEHICLE BUT NO DIAGNOSIS, HOWEVER I WAS TOLD THAT MY FLUID WAS GOOD FOR ANOTHER YEAR, THE TRANSMISSION MIGHT STILL BE "LEARNING' MY DRIVING STYLE, AND MY VEHICLE HAS A BRAKE 'PRIMING' SYSTEM THAT HELPS STOP YOUR VEHICLE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT. WHILE DEPRESSING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. ALSO, THE PARKING BRAKE FAILED TO OPERATE AND THE VEHICLE ROLLED WHEN PARKED ON AN INCLINE. THE PARKING BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED WHEN THE FAILURE OCCURRED. THE CONTACT SPOKE WITH KELLY MITSUBISHI-EMMAUS (536 STATE AVE, EMMAUS, PA 18049) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN A RECALL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE POWER TRAIN FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V563000 (POWER TRAIN) AND THE PARKING BRAKE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V070000 (PARKING BRAKE). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 84,000.

WHEN THE BACK WINDOWS ARE DOWN THERE IS A HORRIBLE VIBRATION NOISE. IT DOES NOT GO AWAY UNTIL THE WINDOWS ARE UP ALL THE WAY. IT'S ONLY WITH THE BACK WINDOWS AND IT'S VERY ANNOYING AND DISTRACTING. IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME THE BACK WINDOWS ARE DOWN, EVEN JUST ONE WINDOW DOWN IN THE REAR CAUSES THIS TO HAPPEN. I'M SURPRISED IT HASN'T CAUSED AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE IT'S SO VERY DISTRACTING!!!! VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE MOVING.

THIS IS THE 4TH TIME I WILL BE REPLACING MY TRANSMISSION. IT JERKS AND THEN FAILS. I CANNOT CHANGE SHIFTS, IT TAKES ABOUT A MINUTE THEN IT WILL MOVE. I HAVE COMPLAINED TO MITSUBISHI AND THEY TOLD ME THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE WHOLE TRANSMISSION, I ALSO WORK AT A DEALER AND KNOW THERE IS A RECALL. THIS TIME WHEN I CALLED AND ASKED THEM TO BUY IT BACK AS A LEMON, THEY ARE NOW TELLING ME THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A RECALL ON THE TRANSMISSION. I CAN KEEP REPLACING MY TRANSMISSION EVERY 4K MILES AND RISKING MY LIFE IF IT FAILS ON THE FREEWAY THAT I TAKE EVERYDAY FR WORK.