2014 Mazda MAZDA6

BUENOS DIAS EN EL ANO 2017 MANEJABA EN LINEA RECTA APROXIMADAMENTE 40 M/H LOGRE VER UN VENADO Y APLIQUE LOS FRENOS PAUSADAMENTE EL CARRO SE DEZPLAZO HACIA LA IZQUIERDA SIN RAZON ALGUNA SALIENDO FUERA DE LA CARRETERA E IMPACTANDO CON EL ORILLO DE LA CARRETERA CAUSANDO DESPRENDIMIENTO DEL CAUCHO DERECHO Y MUCHO DANO EN LA SUSPENSION AHORA DESPUES DE 3 ANOS ME DOI CUENTA POR MEDIO DE LA MAZDA QUE ALGUNA PARTE DEL SISTEMA DE FRENOS EN ALGUNOS MODELOS A SIDO DEFECTUOSA ESTO A PODIDO OCASIONAR LA MUERTE DE MI FAMILIA

THE FRONT SUSPENSION MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE OCCASIONALLY WHEN MOVING RIGHT AFTER STARTUP AND SOMETIMES AFTER STARTING FROM A STOP (USUALLY ONLY NEAR THE START OF A DRIVE). IT ALSO OCCASSIONALLY MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE WHEN HITTING A POTHOLE/SPEED BUMP. THIS SEEMS TO BE THE SAME THING AS RECORDED IN THE MAZDA SERVICE BULLETIN 02-010/16 AND SUGGEST POSSIBLY MAKING IT A RECALL INSTEAD OF A SERVICE BULLETIN.

WHEN TURNING MY STEERING WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT THERE IS A CLUNKING NOISE AND I CAN FEEL IT IN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN STRAIGHTENING OUT THE WHEEL. THE NOISE COULD ALSO BE DESCRIBED AS A KNOCKING THAT CAN BE FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL, WHILE NOT IN MOTION, OR VERY SLOW MOTION, AFTER THE CAR HAS BEEN STATIONARY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME. THIS ISSUE TYPICALLY HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR SITS FOR LONGER THAN 8 HOURS. IT IS MOST COMMONLY FELT WHEN BACKING OUT OF A DRIVEWAY. I'LL BACK OUT AND TURN MY WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT AND FEEL OR HEAR A SLIGHT CLUNK, THEN AFTER I SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND START MOVING FORWARD WHILE STRAITENING OUT MY WHEEL, I ALMOST ALWAYS FEEL AND HEAR A CLUNK OR CLUNK-KNOCK WHILE PUTTING THE WHEEL STRAIGHT. AFTER THIS INITIAL TIME, I DO NOT FEEL IT AGAIN UNLESS THE CAR SITS FOR A WHILE. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN FREQUENTLY WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL THE OTHER DIRECTION. I TOOK THIS INTO THE DEALER AND THEY BELIEVE IT TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER. IT IS OUT OF FACTORY WARRANTY. THEY BELIEVE IT MAY BE SIMILAR TO OR IDENTICAL TO TSB 02-002/18. THE DEALER CHECKED THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, ALL WERE TIGHT, SO IT WAS NOT A SAFETY CONCERN. THEY RECOMMENDED PERFORMING THE REPAIRS IN THE ABOVE MENTIONED SERVICE BULLETIN. I FIRST STARTED NOTICING THIS ISSUE SHORTLY AFTER THE 3 YEAR MARK ON MY VEHICLE. THE REPAIR COSTS ARE TOO HIGH TO ADDRESS UNLESS IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHICH I WAS TOLD IT WASN'T.

TURNING LEFT AT AN INTERSECTION AFTER COMING TO A STOP, THE DRIVER MIS-JUDGED THE RIGHT EDGE OF THE RIGHT-MOST LANE AND STRUCK THE CURB. THE BALL JOINT SEPARATED FROM ITS HOUSING IN THE RIGHT, LOWER CONTROL ARM, CAUSING THE BOTTOM OF THE WHEEL TO COLLAPSE INWARD AND THE DRIVER TO LOSE CONTROL AND IMPACT THE CAR IN THE LEFT LANE. THE BALL AND STUD WERE STILL ATTACHED TO THE UPRIGHT CLAMP, BUT THE BALL JOINT HOUSING WAS MISSING AND NOT RECOVERED. THE TIE ROD, TIE ROD END AND THE STRUT DID NOT APPEAR TO BE DAMAGED. IN PREVIOUS MODEL YEARS (2009-2013), THE LOWER CONTROL ARM APPEARS TO BE A SINGLE, SOLID, FORGED STEEL PIECE WITH AN INTEGRATED BALL JOINT, A DESIGN FOR WHICH A SIDE FORCE IS UNLIKELY TO SEPARATE THE BALL FROM THE CONTROL ARM WITHOUT SHEARING THE BALL STUD. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM IN THE 2014 MODEL YEAR IS A NEW DESIGN MADE FROM A STAMPED STEEL PLATE WITH A SEPARATE BALL JOINT. THE HOUSING OF THE BALL JOINT IS PRESSED INTO A STAMPED HOLE WITH A LIP IN THE PLATE. THE SIDES OF THE CONTROL ARM HAVE STRENGTHENING LIPS THAT EXTEND ONLY TO ABOUT THE CENTER OF THE BALL JOINT AND THEN STOP. THE OUTER END OF THE CONTROL ARM IS A FLAT PLATE WITHOUT A STRENGTHENING LIP. THE FLAT OUTER END WAS FOLDED BACK FLAT OVER THE TOP OF THE CONTROL ARM IN THIS ACCIDENT.