2022 Kia Telluride

Backed out of my driveway went about 100 yards down the street to make a left turn. I pushed on the brake and every possible warning went off. ABS light, traction control, collision warning, error messages kept coming on. The brake pedal went to the floor. I continued to pump the brakes. Tried to put the transmission into manual mode and downshift. That didn't slow us down. Still continued to pump the brakes. Had to make a right turn or jump the curb into a park. The steering was hard to turn. Pulled the adaptive electric parking brake. Nothing. We were going slightly down hill so had a little speed, but the car came to a rest and the brakes worked. All the other warning lights and error messages kept going off. Turned off the car and started it again. Drove home and it has set there for 3 days. The dealership is always closed on the weekends. I have lost complete trust in this vehicle and in the manufacture.

Brake pedal will sometime become a “brick” after the car sits for a little while. Could be an hour, could be overnight. Not able to press down the brake pedal easily to crank the car. Has happened at least a dozen times over the last 4 months. Have not brought up the issue to the dealership yet. No lights on the dash to indicate an issue.

The contact owns a 2022 Kia Telluride. The contact stated while driving 3-5MPH and making a left turn, the brake pedal was depressed but bounced back immediately and failed to respond. The traction control, the Auto Hold feature, and the forward collision avoidance warning lights were illuminated. The message "Forward Collision Sensor" was displayed. The contact depressed the brake pedal for a second time but the failure persisted, causing the vehicle to hit the rear of another vehicle. The contact stated it was a fender-bender. The air bags did not deploy. The contact did not sustain any injuries. The contact was unsure whether the occupants of the other vehicle sustained injuries. There was no police report filed. The contact was able to drive to his nearby residence. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that no issues were found. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they would send an investigation team to investigate the failure. However, the investigation team investigated the failure remotely. The dealer later informed the contact that the rear wheel speed sensor needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 30,000.

Rear driver's side wheel speed sensor began to fail intermittently at 10K miles (confirmed and replaced under warranty by dealership, no longer have access to the failed part but can provide dealer contact info). This failure resulted in braking not working correctly – presumably ABS system would read a 0 RPM reading from the one wheel, which then led to ABS triggering at maximum strength for all wheels. The first time this occurred I was approaching a stop sign at approximately 20 MPH on dry pavement and was entirely unable to stop, rolling approximately 50 feet before the computer disabled ABS entirely and I was able to use mechanical brakes to stop. (In subsequent incidents I triggered the same failure in my driveway at extremely low speeds before getting onto a public road.) The following dashboard lights came on after each incident: Auto Hold, Auto Stop-Start, Forward Collision Assist, ABS, Traction Control, and Master Warning. No lights were on prior to brake failure. While the computer registered that the wheel speed sensor was not working mechanical brakes worked correctly (albeit with no stability control or ABS). However, occasionally the system would reset (after turning off / on the vehicle enough times or driving enough distance) at which point dashboard warning lights would turn off and brakes would again stop working reliably (ABS would trigger prematurely). My experience appears to not be an isolated incident: https://www.kiatelluride.org/threads/brakes-failing.1653/. Proposed fix: If wheel speed sensor is sending no data, ABS computer should fail open (assume the wheel is turning unless data from the sensor explicitly indicates otherwise). If the sensor is unable to differentiate between no signal and 0 RPM it should be re-engineered.