2016 Hyundai Tucson

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the front driver’s, front passenger’s, and rear driver’s side windows would independently lower without warning. The contact stated that each window regulators had gradually failed over time. The contact then stated that while driving at approximately 65 MPH, the passenger’s side front window shattered into tiny pieces and fell inside the vehicle. The contact was able to drive the vehicle home and had an independent mechanic come to her home to replace the front passenger’s side window. In addition, the contact stated that the rear passenger’s side door would fail to open from both inside and outside the vehicle. The contact had yet to notify either the dealer or the manufacturer of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated that the vehicle would not start. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the starter had failed and needed to be replaced. The starter was replaced. The independent mechanic also informed the contact that the brake pedal needed to be replaced, and the rear trailing arm was corroded and could fracture while driving. There were no warning lights illuminated. The independent mechanic stated that the suspension front spring and coil spring could damage the tire overtime. The contact became aware that the VIN was included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V543000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic). The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 37,861.

The car vibrates, shakes, when stopped; hesitates, shakes, vibrates on accelerating from stopping, in traffic at stoplights. Incident becomes unsafe in traffic, etc. Reported to Dealer (Horne Hyundai, Mesa, AZ, 85120) and took car in for troubleshooting, diagnostics, or repair(s); twice, 1 st on Jan. 19, 2022, Dealer duplicated the same problem; Dealer technician performed 7 Type Judder Test, Vehicle Failed. Performed Transmission (TCU) update, Vehicle Passed, performed test drive, vehicle passed. Dealer acknowledged the same issue with vehicle; however reported to customer that it passed the Judder Test. Vehicle released to customer, no further testing or logic improvement. Customer drove vehicle home and incident occured again, less than 24 hrs from Dealer troubleshooting the incident. Customer returned vehicle to Dealer on Jan. 31, 2022; with the same issue; vibrating, hesitating, when stopping, and accelerating at stop lights, etc. Safety Issue in traffic. Dealer acknowledged the same issue again. Dealer technician again performed 7 Type Judder test. Judder detected. Performed Dual Clutch Transmission Detection and TCU Software updates, proceeded to test for Judder, Vehicle Passed. Returned vehicle to customer. Customer conferred with Dealer Service Manager about the vehicle issues, and was unable to resolve any further testing or next logical repair issues. Dealer suggested the customer contact the Manufacturer for further issues; unable to satisfy customer complaints of this issue and documented issues with previous recall of 41,000 Hyundai Tucson DCT issues and problems. Dealer could not reconcile with customer on why this VIN number was not included in the recall #149 for Hyundai Tucson vehicles; suggesting we report to NHTSA for the safety issue. This DCT issue is recurring with recurring "reprogramming by the Dealer(s) never really repairing anything, just software updates. Invoices 358494 (2) Horne Hyundai, Apache Junction, AZ 85120

electrical issues and/or hardware issues with rear windows. understand the issue to be electrical motor and/or window regulator. One window fixed but other to be repaired. in driving, window starts to sag and persons outside the vehicle have attempted to gain entrance through the sagging window. for the repaired window, the dealer inspected and was to repair except the price seemed too high and was only for the window regulator. taken to a glass/auto body shop who indicated both motor and regulator needed to be replaced and charged what the dealer was going to charge for only the replacement of the regulator. the within days after one window fixed, the other window refused to close all the way and the issue of someone trying to gain entrance occurred.

My back door on the driver's side does not open from the inside or out. I had the same issue with my driver's door but would open from the outside. I went to the dealership and replaced the door latch assembly. I am not under warranty, so it cost me alot to get fixed. Just one month later the backdoor stopped working completely. I got a letter in the mail form Hyundai saying this is a known issue and if your warranty has expired they'll fix it at no cost, that doesn't help me at all. This is a safety issue and needs to be a recall. I am worried the other doors will stop working. It is not affordable to get fixed.

While I was driving on the highway my check engine light started blinking. I immediately pulled off on the next exit 1/4 mile from when the light started blinking. After stopping completely off the exit the engine stalled and both the oil light and battery light popped on. I was not able to accelerate or drive it from there. An independent mechanic who towed it to their shop said there was no oil in the engine. This is impossible because I had plenty of time left before the next oil change. A week prior to this incident we took the car to the Hyundai dealership to fix a recall problem. There was no indication anything was wrong with the engine or car at the time they fixed the recall issue. Somehow the oil in the engine disappeared and there was no indication from any low oil lights, engine lights, or any other notification that there was an issue. It currently has been towed to the Hyundai dealership and awaiting their diagnostic and solution. A claim has been opened with Hyundai corporate since there is a recall opened for 2016 Hyundai Tuscons.

1) Front right driver headlight warning message, keeps illuminating. Mechanic, noticed wires are burning inside compartment. Safety issue burning wires may cause entire electrical system to burn out causing a fire and not having headlights. Vehicle being serviced 10/29/21 2) Driver Brake light message illuminated, replaced light 2 mo ago, as of today 10-28-21, brake light out again. Vehicle being serviced 10/29/21 3) Purchased vehicle 3/21. Vehicle will not accelerate, it will jerk causing a slow start, safety issue. Vehicle taken to mechanic covered thru warranty, he stated vehicle drove ok, still having same problem since 3/21

MAJOR ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS ASSOCIATED WITH THE VEHICLE MALFUNCTIONED INCLUDING SPEEDOMOTER, TACHOMETER, DEACTIVATION OF AIRBAGS AND INABILITY TO INDICATE WHICH GEAR THE VEHICLE WAS IN. SITUATION WAS REMEDIED WITH THE REPLACEMENT OF A SECONDARY VACUUM PUMP. WATER ENTRY INTO THE PUMP IS CAUSE OF ISSUE TO MAJOR ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS.

I'm mid may-end of may I took it in to Fort mill Hyundai the first time because it was starting to crank hard, sounded funny and my dashboard lights would come on saying I needed oil and there was an engine issue. When I idled too long the car would just die, I'd have to shift into park actually turn the car off and let it sit 1-3 mins turn it back on and all the lights would be off and it would drive like it did before it died, loud. They did testing on it and said these repairs (crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and I think an oil change) should fix it. This was less than a month after my previous oil change. Got the car back 3-4 days later and it sounded better but I still felt like it didn't drive and smooth as it should. 2-3 weeks goes by and my oil light again comes on only with sharp turns. The car over the next couple of days would do the loud cranking noise, didn't drive well over 60 and the engine light came on and gauges would go down but would be fine again once the car was turned off for a couple min like 5 . I set up an appt to hVe them look it over again because of the lights coming back on. Not even 2 days later twice going to and from work it completely died out on me (like the first time) but this time it would turn over once it was out in park and turned off correctly. First time I was in the middle of traffic at a red light waited 10 mins multiple times trying to turn the car on to move to the side and it wouldn't. I let it sit for 5 mins without trying to turn it on and it started the gauges didn't work and it was VERY loud stuck in like first gear wouldn't go above 20 mph. Pulled into a neighborhood turned it off to let it cool off again thinking it was over heating. It would crank but again lights still all on and the gear gauge didn't work (down at 0 liek the car was off). I waiting like 20 mins it still had the lights on but the gauges worked, when I tried to drive home it wouldn't go about 45mph or out of 2nd gear.