2010 Hyundai Elantra

Rear lower control arm detached from subframe while highway driving. Lost control of vehicle. The problem has been an issue for Sonata and Azera however not for Elantra when the same thing happened. The component has not been inspected yet. There were no warning lights. Happened suddenly. Is available for inspection. Subframe became corroded from road salt. VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. ROAD SALT APPLIED IN THESE JURISDICTIONS DURING THE WINTER MONTHS MAY RESULT IN PROGRESSIVE, INTERNAL CORROSION OF THE FRONT SUB-FRAME ON THE VEHICLES, AND MAY RESULT IN THINNING OR PERFORATION OF THE SUB-FRAME STEEL. THE CORROSION IS FREQUENTLY VISIBLE AND OFTEN DISCOVERED DURING INSPECTION OR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE, AND OWNERS MAY ALSO HEAR NOISES OR NOTICE TIRE MISALIGNMENT AND STEERING PULL. IF THESE SIGNALS ARE UNDETECTED OR UNHEEDED, THE CORROSION MAY PROGRESS AND THE FORWARD MOUNTING OF THE LOWER CONTROL ARM MAY DETACH FROM THE SUB-FRAME. That’s exactly what happened.

On July 25, 2023, I was driving in our town when I heard a noise coming from the rear of the car. I was very close to a repair facility that I sometimes use, so I slowly drove there. They looked at the car and showed me that the rear driver-side wheel was about to fall off. They then raised the car in the shop and told me that the rear upper-control arm had rusted through and broken, causing the wheel to break off. They showed me a photo of this. I was also told that had this happened on a highway at a higher speed, there could have been fatalities because control of the car would have been seriously affected. I contacted Hyundai about this and they told me to take to a dealer to be looked at. I refused to pay for this inspection and I now do not trust Hyundai.

THE CAR CREAKS WHEN YOU GO AT A SLOW SPEED OR OVER A HUMP. THE STEERING WHEEL ALSO MAKES A CLICKING OR KNOCKING SOUND WHEN STEERING IT AND WHEN YOU TURN THE CAR TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT IT MAKES A CREAKING NOISE. WHEN YOU GET OUT OF THE CAR, IT SEEMS THAT IT CREAKS ONCE THE WEIGHT IS LIFTED. THE CREAKING IS EITHER WHEN STATIONARY OR WHEN GOING AT A LOW SPEED OVER HUMPS AND WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL. WHEN DRIVING AT NORMAL SPEED OR DOING THE SPEED LIMIT, YOU DON'T HEAR THE CREAKING, BUT THE STEERING WHEEL STILL KNOCKS. AND WHEN PUTTING ON BRAKES AFTER NORMAL SPEED, THE STEERING WHEEL KNOCKS BADLY.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND WAS CUT OFF BY ANOTHER CAR. I WAS TRAVELLING ABOUT 50MPH, I PROCEEDED TO BRAKE (DID NOT REQUIRE HARD BRAKING, BECAUSE ME SPEED WAS NOT HIGH) AND STEER TO THE RIGHT TO AVOID HITTING THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAR THAT CUT ME OFF. MY CAR OVER COMPENSATED AND PROCEEDED TO SWERVE. IT TOOK A LOT TO REGAIN CONTROL. MY INITIAL STEER TO AVOID THE CAR IN FRONT WAS NOT SIGNIFICANT ENOUGH TO CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO SWERVE OUT OF CONTROL. I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED THIS WITH OTHER VEHICLES THAT I HAVE DRIVEN AND THIS EXPERIENCE WAS RATHER FRIGHTENING.

TRUNK LID OPENS BY ITSELF EITHER WHEN DRIVING OR WHILE PARKED. HAD MY 2010 ELANTRA TOWED TO DEALER SATURDAY 03/05/11 AFTER HEARING A LOUD SOUND UNDER REAR OF CAR AS IF SOMETHING METAL HAD BROKEN, THEN IT SOUNDED LIKE SOMETHING UNDER THE REAR OF THE CAR HAD DROPPED, THEN A LOUD SCRAPING NOISE OCCURRED, THIS HAPPENED WHILE TURNING RIGHT INTO MY PAVED DRIVEWAY. I STOPPED IMMEDIATELY AND LOOKED UNDER THE CAR, THERE WAS NOTHING IN THE ROAD OR MY DRIVEWAY. AS I PULLED THE CAR IN THE DRIVEWAY LOUD RATTLING AND SCRAPING SOUNDS AND SOUNDS OF SPRINGS STRETCHING AND BREAKING WERE COMING FROM THE LEFT REAR WHEEL, I LOOKED FOR ANYTHING FOREIGN STUCK IN THE WHEELS AND SAW NOTHING. THE DEALER SAID ALL THEY FOUND WAS RUST ON THE ROTOR. GIVE ME A BREAK, ALL ROTORS RUST AND IT RAINED ALL DAY SUNDAY BEFORE THEY LOOKED AT THE CAR. I HAD DRIVEN THE CAR AT LEAST 45 MILES THAT SATURDAY BEFORE THIS ALL OCCURRED, THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN NO RUST LEFT ON THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE ROTORS BY THEN. BESIDES RUST DOES NOT CAUSE THE SOUNDS THAT I HEARD. ALSO WHEN THE CAR WAS UP ON THE FLAT-BED I NOTICED THE LEFT REAR WHEEL WAS ON A SLANT. I WILL ASK THE DEALER TO FULLY INSPECT THE SUSPENSION AND IF THEY CAN PULL THE REAR ROTORS OFF TO INSPECT THE EMERGENCY BRAKES AND TO CHECK OUT WHY THE TRUNK LID OPENS BY ITSELF ON TUESDAY 03/08/11, AND I WILL LET THE NHTSA KNOW THE RESULTS. UPDATED IVOQ 03/11/11 *TR

I TOOK DELIVERY OF THE BRAND NEW CAR & ABOUT A MILE DOWN THE ROAD I NOTICED PROMINENT BOUNCES AFTER THE CAR WOULD GO OVER BUMP IN THE ROAD WHEN THE CAR WAS DECELERATING TO A TRAFFIC LIGHT. I FELT A TOTAL OF THREE BOUNCES WITH THE FIRST BEING THE LARGEST, SECOND HALF OF FIRST, THIRD HALF OF SECOND, & FOURTH COULDN'T BE FELT. IT WAS BUMPER TO BUMPER TRAFFIC & GOING LIGHT TO LIGHT. THE BUMPS WERE RAISE SECTIONS OF THE ROAD AFFECTING ALL FOUR TIRES. THE BUMPS WERE NOT POTHOLES. I EMAILED MY SALESPERSON THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY OF THE PROBLEM WITH NO RESPONSE. MY MAIN CONCERN IS HIGHWAY DRIVING. ONE STRETCH OF HIGHWAY HAS CEMENT SLABS IN AN UNDULATING PATTERN THAT I HAVE DRIVEN OVER DAILY FOR A VERY LONG TIME AT MANY DIFFERENT SPEEDS & IN MANY DIFFERENT DRIVING CONDITIONS. MY PREVIOUS CAR WOULD REACT BY RUMBLING UP & DOWN. THAT SENSATION WAS CONSTANT OVER THE YEARS AT ANY SPEED & DRIVING CONDITION. ONCE I CLEARED THAT SECTION OF THE BAD HIGHWAY, MY CAR WOULD IMMEDIATELY STOP. THE FIRST TIME I WENT OVER THAT SAME STRETCH OF HIGHWAY IN MY NEW CAR AT AN EST. 60-65 MPH, THE CAR BEGIN TO OSCILLATE HARMONICALLY (BOUNCE RHYTHMICALLY) & CONTINUED TO HARMONICALLY OSCILLATE (BOUNCE) ONCE I CLEARED THAT BAD SECTION OF THE HIGHWAY FOR AN ADDITIONAL MINUTE. I ESTIMATED THE TOTAL TIME AT TWO MINUTES. THE HARMONIC OSCILLATION FELT VERY CONSISTENT OVER THAT TWO MINUTE STRETCH. ONCE I WENT OVER ANOTHER BUMP THE OSCILLATION WENT STOPPED. THE STRUTS ARE SUPPOSED TO DAMPEN THE OSCILLATIONS. I BROUGHT IT INTO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT. THE MECHANIC TEST DROVE IT & SAID THE SUSPENSION FELT FIRM. THE SUSPENSION CHECKED OUT OK (NO NUMBERS GIVEN). IT HAS A SPORT TUNED SUSPENSION & WAS SUPPOSE TO DO THIS. THE MECHANIC DIDN'T DRIVE THE BAD SECTION OF THE HIGHWAY BECAUSE IT WAS TOO FAR AWAY. I WILL TRY TO RESOLVE THIS MATTER WITH THE HYUNDAI'S FIELD SERVICE ENGINEER.

2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS. CONSUMER STATES PROBLEM WITH VEHICLE TIRES. CONSUMER STATES DURING SNOW SEASON, NUMEROUS TIMES THE FRONT TIRES SWAYED TO THE LEFT AND THEN RIGHT *TGW THE CONSUMER STATED SHE DID NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN IT HAPPENED AND SHE WAS GOING 10-15 MPH. THE CONSUMER STATED AN ALIGNMENT WAS PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE AND THE INSPECTION REVEALED THE FRONT AND REAR TOE WAS OUT OF SPECIFICATIONS. *JB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD BOUNCE INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED OVER 50 MPH. THE VEHICLE ALSO FISH TAILS OCCASIONALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THEY LOWERED THE TIRE PRESSURE; HOWEVER; AFTER 1500 MILES THE PROBLEMS WERE STILL OCCURRING CONSISTENTLY. THE CONTACT DID NOT INFORM THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1500. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 15. UPDATED 02/10/11 *BF UPDATED 02/22/11