2010 Honda CR-V

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR FAILED, COULD NOT UNLOCK OR LOCK DOORS, VERY SCARY. COULD NOT FIGURE OUT WHY I COULD NOT GET OUT OF CAR. THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED. ALSO PASSENGER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED AS WELL. THIS WAS REALLY SCARY THAT HONDA HAS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT THAT WAS SETTLED BUT DID NOT INCLUDE 2010 CR-V. HAD TO GET THIS FIXED AS IT IS AN EXTREME SAFETY CONCERN THAT HONDA DID NOT WANT TO INCLUDE FIXING THIS ISSUE IN THERE SETTLEMENT AND NOW MAYBE THE NHTSA MIGHT LOOK INTO THIS THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE.

DRIVER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR IS MALFUNCTIONING. UNABLE TO LOCK DOOR WITH KEY FOB, HAVE TO MANUALLY LOCK IT. CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT WAS FOR THE 2007 AND 2008 MODEL, HOWEVER THE COMPANY IS STILL USING THE DEFECT PART IN NEWER MODELS. WAITING FOR THE OTHER DOOR TO MALFUNCTION AND IF IT PERSIST IT MIGHT CAUSE A FIRE IN THE DOOR. BIG SAFETY CONCERN, GUESS THE GOVERNMENT WILL WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE DIES BEFORE RECALLING THIS PROBLEM. THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEMS FOR THE CRVS, LOOK AT THE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT.

DRIVING INTO 2 CAR GARAGE LOCATED ON CIRCULAR 1 WAY STREET. GARAGE ANGLED OPPOSITE WAY. HAVE TO MAKE A U TURN AND HAVE CAR FULLY BRAKED TO ENTER GARAGE. PARK ON LEFT HAND SIDE; CAR COMPLETELY STOPPED AND WAS GOING TO CHANGE FROM DRIVE TO PARK. CAR REVVED UP AND HEADED TOWARD RIGHT SIDE OF GARAGE AND CRASHED INTO HOUSE WALL. TOOK OUT 8" OF WALL AND DESTROYED PART OF FOUNDATION & WALL. FIRE DEPT. & EMS CALLED. I HAVE PREEXISTING CONDITIONS INCLUDING CERVICAL FUSIONS, SPONDYLOTHESIS, ARTIFICAL KNEE. BOTH KNEES HIT DASHBOARD. AFTER AIR BAG POPPED, I LOOKED TO SEE MY FOOT WAS STILL ON BRAKE. CAR TOTALED.

VEHICLE WAS REAR-ENDED BY A FASTER VEHICLE. THE IMPACT FORCED THE TRANSMISSION INTO "PARK," WHICH AUTOMATICALLY LOCKED THE DOORS, TRAPPING ANY OCCUPANTS. HAD THERE BEEN A FIRE OR WATER SUBMERGENCE SITUATION, THERE COULD BE UNNECESSARY INJURY OR EVEN DEATH. VEHICLE DOOR LOCKS NEED TO BE RE-DESIGNED TO LET OCCUPANTS ESCAPE IN AN EMERGENCY. *JS

YEAR AFTER HAVING THE CAR I HAD TO REPLACE THE INTERIA LIGHT 3 TIMES. I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE LIGHTS, AND THE TAG LIGHT. WHEN TAKING IT DEALER THEY SAID IT WAS OK. THE DASH LIGHTS FOR THE ABS AND SLIDE CONTROL COMES ON WHEN BACKING UP AND STAYS ON UNTIL I RESTART. THE DEALER SAID IT IS OK AS LONG AS IT DOES NOT STAY ON. *TR

THE POWER LOCKS ARE NOT WORKING PROPERLY. I FIRST NOTICED THAT THE LOCKS WOULD CYCLE LOCKED AND UNLOCKED AFTER I HAD THE CAR FOR ABOUT A YEAR. IT WOULD HAPPEN RANDOMLY BUT WHILE I WAS DRIVING. WITHIN THE LAST SIX MONTHS, I COULDN'T GET THE CAR TO OPEN USING THE BUTTON ON THE KEY, I HAVE TO USE THE KEY IN THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR AND, ONCE INSIDE THE CAR, REACH OVER TO THE DOOR THAT I WANT TO OPEN TO MANUALLY OPEN IT WITH MY HAND. THE TRUNK WILL OPEN IF I CYCLE THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR ELECTRIC LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES. WHEN I AM DRIVING THE DOORS WILL CYCLE LOCKED/UNLOCKED UNTIL I MOVE THE MANUAL INDICATOR SEVERAL TIMES. I AM SEEING A PROBLEM WHERE ALL OF THE DOORS AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER HAVE BEEN IN THE OPPOSITE POSITION THAN THE OTHER THREE DOORS, SO IT IS A PROBLEM WITH ALL OF THE DOORS. I'M SEEING A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM AND EVEN A LAWSUIT ONLINE. I SPOKE TO HONDA TODAY AT 800-999-1009 AND SAID THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO SINCE THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY (IT'S 4 YEARS OLD WITH ABOUT 60K MILES ON IT). IT SEEMS LIKE THIS IS A BIGGER PROBLEM FOR MANY MODELS OF HONDA VEHICLES. *TR

DRIVER-SIDE POWER DOOR LOCK IN MY 2010 HONDA CR-V EX-L PERIODICALLY STOPS RESPONDING TO BOTH THE INTERIOR LOCK BUTTON AND THE REMOTE KEY FOB BUTTON. THIS COULD POTENTIALLY CREATE A DANGEROUS SITUATION WHERE THE DRIVER UNINTENTIONALLY OPENS THE DOOR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION BY PULLING THE LEVER FROM THE INSIDE, WHILE UNDER THE ASSUMPTION THAT THE DOOR HAS BEEN LOCKED. NOTE THAT IN HONDA MODELS, PULLING THE INTERIOR RELEASE LEVER WHILE THE DOOR IS LOCKED SHOULD PREVENT THE DOOR FROM BEING OPENED ALTOGETHER. THIS PROBLEM COULD MISLEAD THE DRIVER INTO THINKING THAT ALL DOORS HAVE BEEN LOCKED WHILE, IN FACT, THEY HAVE NOT; THIS ALSO CREATES A SECURITY ISSUE BECAUSE THE DOOR CAN BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE AS WELL. ANOTHER RELATED PROBLEM IS THE POTENTIAL FOR THE DRIVER TO UNINTENTIONALLY LEAVE THE VEHICLE WITH AN UNLOCKED DOOR, EVEN AFTER PRESSING THE LOCK BUTTON ON THE REMOTE KEY FOB, WHICH INCREASES THE PROBABILITY OF THEFT AND BREAK-INS. A QUICK INTERNET SEARCH REVEALS MANY USER COMPLAINTS ABOUT POWER DOOR LOCK PROBLEMS IN THIS GENERATION OF CR-V, SHOWING A CLEAR PATTERN OF PROBLEMS WITH THE 2007 - 2011 CR-V. HONDA SHOULD ADDRESS THIS IMMEDIATELY BY ISSUING A RECALL AND WARRANTY EXTENSION. *TR

PULL INTO MY GARAGE, APPLIED BRAKE, BRAKE WENT TO THE FLOOR AND ACCELERATE AT THE SAME TIME. HIT MY GARAGE WALL CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE WALL AND CAR. TURN OF CAR. DROVE THE CAR NEXT DAY, EVERY THING WAS OK. CHECK OUT THE BRAKES ON MY LONG DRIVE WAY, EVERY THING SEEM OK. WHEN OVER TO A FRIENDS HOUSE, MONDAY, AGAIN SAME THING HAPPEN, WENT THRU A GASOLINE STATION, AND THE ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROLS ACCELERATED, WAS FINALLY ABLE TO STOP IT, WHEN THE BRAKES RETURN TO NORMAL. WHEN WE WERE LEAVING OUR FRIENDS HOUSE, THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. HAD TO JUMP START, EVERY THING WAS OK DRIVING HOME. TRYING TO SET UP A APPOINTMENT AT THE HONDA DEALER TODAY. *TR

MY 2010 CRV SOMETIMES DOESN'T START THE FIRST TIME. THIS HAPPENED MORE FREQUENTLY OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS. WHAT HAPPENS IS WHEN STARTING THE CAR THERE WILL BE A "CLICK SOUND" BUT NOT THE SOUND OF THE STARTER.....TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION AND TRY AGAIN AND THE CAR STARTS NORMALLY. ALWAYS STARTS NORMALLY ON THE SECOND TRY. WHAT I HEARD WAS A CLEAR BUZZING SOUND COMING RIGHT FROM THE STEERING COLUMN, NEAR THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE KEY WAS TURNED TO THE START POSITION. NO SOUNDS FROM THE ENGINE AT ALL. THE SOUND WAS LIKE AN ELECTRICAL BUZZ. AFTER TURNING THE KEY ON AND OFF THREE TIMES, THEN THE CAR STARTED NORMALLY WITH NO BUZZING COMING FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. IN SEARCHING THE WEB, THERE ARE OTHER CRVS THAT REPORT THE SAME THING--ABNORMAL SOUND AT FIRST START AND THEN PERFECTLY NORMAL STARTS ON THE SECOND TRY. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME I TOOK MY CRV TO HONDA DEALER FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. FIRST TIME, BATTERY WAS REPLACES. SECOND TIME, RELAY WAS REPLACED. NO PROBLEM FIXED. *JS

GEARS BEGAN TO CRUNCH AND THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE. SLOWED DOWN AT A LIGHT AND LOST THE POWER STEERING. PULLED OVER AND THE ENGINE STALLED. COULD NOT RE-START FOR 10 MINUTES. ENGINE THEN RE-STARTED, TRAVELED APPROX. 10 METERS AND STALLED. RE-STARTED AGAIN - NO FURTHER PROBLEMS. 2 SIMILAR OCCURRENCES, 2 MONTHS APART. FOR THE FIRST EVENT, THE CAR WENT OFF THE ROAD. ON EACH OCCASION THE DEALERSHIP STATED THEY HAD CHECKED EVERYTHING AND THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. TOOK IT FOR A SECOND OPINION. DEALERSHIP HAD NOT CHECKED RECALL 11-001 (JANUARY, 2011). THEY CHECKED IT, BUT AGAIN FOUND NO ISSUE. *TR