2012 Dodge Dart

1.4 L ENGINE 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION-HAS HAD MULTIPLE PROBLEM AND REPAIRS WITH WEEKS AT THE DEALERSHIP AT A TIME. TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT MULTIPLE TIMES WITHOUT RESOLUTION. CRUISE CONTROL WORKS INTERMITTENTLY. WIPERS CONE IN SOMETIMES WHEN BLINDER IS TURNED ON. CAR FAILED TO START, WOULD STAY ON AFTER KEY WAS REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE-REPLACED IGNITION CONTROL MODULE. REPLACED BATTERY, CAR BACK FIRES, WARRANTIED OUT 1ST COIL AND SPARK PLUG, ERROR CODE FOR 3RD CYLINDER AFTER, DEALERSHIP STATED IT WAS REALLY DEFECTIVE 1ST COIL AND WARRANTIED OUT AGAIN, CAR STILL BACK FIRES. CAR WOULDN'T GO IN TO REVERSE, DIFFERENTIATION CABLE HAD SNAPPED, DEALERSHIP REPLACED CABLE AND GEAR SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. CAR WOULDN'T SHIFT IN TO 3RD FROM 2ND GEAR, DEALERSHIP REPLACED THROW OUT BEARING, PRESSURE PLATE AND MAYER CYLINDER ON "EXTENDED WARRANTY" /RECALL AFTER ANOTHER 20 DAYS DRIVE 14 MILES FOR WHEEL BEARING FAILURE/ABS SENSOR ON FRONT DRIVERS SIDE. DEALERSHIP REPLACED BOTH FRONT BEARINGS AND ABS SENSORS, TECHNICIAN DIDN'T FINISH TEST DRIVE AND ONE OF NEW BEARINGS FAILED, HAD TO REPLACE AGAIN, WITHIN 24 HOURS CLUTCH WOULDN'T DEPRESS, THEN WENT TO THE FLOOR, LIFTED WITH MY FOOT STILL COULDN'T GET CAR IN TO GEAR. TURNED CAR OFF, REMOVED KEY, STARTED ASIAN AND WAS ABLE TO GET IN TO GEAR. CAR IS MAKING CLICKING SOUND WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED AND SOME TIMES AFTER RELEASE THERE IS SCRAPING SOUND. YOU TUBE VIDEO OF ANOTHER PERSON'S CAR MAXING SAME SOUND HTTP://YOUTU.BE/JJYRRR8XRSY STATES FLYWHEEL HAD TO BE REPLACED. THERE'S PROBABLY MORE THAT I'M FORGETTING TO NOTE BUT IT IS CLEAR FROM THIS VEHICLES POOR PERFORMANCE MORE WILL ENSUE, HOW CAN I GET OUT OF THIS UNDEPENDENCE SERVICE RIDDEN VEHICLE? AFTER HOW MANY FAILURES WILL SOME ONE MAKE DODGE STEP UP?

VEHICLE STALLED OUT IN COLD WEATHER WHILE I WAS DRIVING. CAR BEGIN TO ROLL BACK BECAUSE I WAS ON TRAVELING ON A HILL. I HAD TO MENUVER VEHICLE DOWN HILL. AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE CAR STARTED,. VEHICLE EMERGENCY BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD VEHICLE ON ANY KIND OF GRADED SURFACE. I ONCE PARTED IN FRIENDS DRIVE PULLED UP EMERGENCY ALL THE WAY UP TURN CAR OFF. WENT TO VISIT FRIEND A FEW MINUTE AND WHEN CAME OUT THE HOUSE VEHICLE WAS ROLLING BACKWARDS. I OPEN THE JUMPED IN CAR MEANWHILE CAR WAS ALREADY IN STREET WITH PARTED CARS AND MOVING TRAFFIC. I WAS ABLE TO JUMP IN USE FOOT BRAKE TO STOP VEHICLE WITHOUT INSIDENT( TOOK TO DEALER FOR REPAIRED 3 TIMES IN TWO YEARS, JUST REPAIRED LAST WEEK PHASE 1 ENGINE FAILURE TWICE WITHIN FIRST YEAR AND HALF. CAR SPUTTER AND JERKED DROVE ROUGH. TOOK TO DEALER REPAIR TWICE ON DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. DURING REPAIR DEALER KEPT VEHICLE 3 WEEKS ON REPAIR AND OVER A WEEK ON THE OTHER. DEALER REASON FOR DELAY WAS WAITING ON PART. I AM VERY IN SATISFIED WITH VEHICLE QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE IN THE THREE YEARS I HAD IT I'M DRIVING VEHICLE LESS AND LESS BECAUSE OF QUALITY ISSUES AND RELIABILITY ISSUE MAKES ME AND MY FAMILY FEEL UNSAFE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER INTERMITTENTLY AND EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT IT NEEDED A NEW BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT OIL WAS ADDED IN THE VEHICLE EVERY WEEK OR EVERY TWO WEEKS; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE OCCURRED TWELVE TIMES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,000.

GAUGES WILL FREEZE WHILE DRIVING, BUT RESET AFTER 20 MINUTES. HAS HAPPENED ON 4 SEPARATE OCCURENCES. WHILE DRIVING DOWN AN EXPRESSWAY AT 50MPH IN THE CITY, THE CAR LOST BOOST(PRESSURE FROM THE TURBO) CAUSING IT TO LOSE POWER DRAMATICALLY REDUCING SAFETY AND FUEL ECONOMY. THE CAR LOST THE ABILITY TO MERT SPEED LIMIT AND SLOWING DOWN TRAFFIC BEHIND AND THE ABILITY TO GET UP A HILL IN MY AREA. RESEARCH HAS SHOWN COUNTLESS OTHER PEOPLE BEING AFFECTED BY THE P0299 LOW PRESSURE CODE.

I HAVE HAD MULTIPLE ISSUES WITH MY CAR SINCE I GOT IT. I HAVE BEEN THROUGH THREE RADIOS, AN ENTIRELY NEW TURBO WAS INSTALLED ONE YEAR AFTER PURCHASING THE CAR. THEN THINGS WERE GOING WELL UNTIL RECENTLY. I HAVE HAD THE CAR IN THE SHOP ABOUT 3 WEEKS IN A ROW. FIRST IT WAS ONE OF MY COILS THAT HAD BECOME INACTIVE. SO WHILE DRIVING IT THE CAR SHAKES AND STUTTERS. WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY I TRY TO HIT THE GAS AND THE CAR STARTS SLOWING DOWN AND SHAKING. SO I HAD TAKEN IT TO ANOTHER SHOP TO LOOK AT IT BECAUSE FOR A NEW CAR IT IS NOT IN MY FINANCES TO BE PUTTING $400 INTO MY CAR EVERY WEEK. HAD TO GET THE PART ORDERED SO I AM CURRENTLY DRIVING MY CAR AROUND WITH ONE COIL INACTIVE. THEN IN THE MIDST OF ALL THIS HAPPENING, ONE WEEK AFTER THE COIL HAD OFFICIALLY WENT INACTIVE, IT WAS BACK IN THE SHOP BECAUSE MY EMERGENCY BRAKE ALL OF A SUDDEN BECAME REALLY LOOSE AND WHEN I WASN'T MOVING THE CAR WOULD ROLL. WHICH MEANS THE EMERGENCY BRAKE WASN'T DOING ITS JOB. SO THAT NIGHT I TOOK IT OVER TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT YET AGAIN. THEY CALLED ME THE NEXT DAY AND SAID THAT MY LEFT REAR CALIBER HAD SEIZED WHICH IS DESCRIBED TO ME THAT IT WASN'T GRABBING AND RELEASING THE WHEEL LIKE IT SHOULD HAVE WHICH ALSO CAUSED MY BRAKES AND ROTORS TO WEAR SO MUCH THAT THEY HAD TO BE REPLACED. WHICH THIS WAS SOMETHING I COULD NOT JUST LET GO, OR EVEN DRIVE THE CAR WITH, I HAD TO PAY THE DEALERSHIP OVER $400 TO JUST FIX MY CAR SO THAT I COULD DRIVE IT. I CANNOT BELIEVE ALL THE TROUBLE THAT I AM GOING THROUGH FOR A CAR THAT IS NOT EVEN 5 YEARS OLD.

ON 3 SEPARATE OCCASIONS, MY 2013 DODGE DART GT WITH A 2.4 TIGER SHARK ENGINE WITH MULTIAIR HAS SHUT DOWN WHILE THE CAR WAS MOVING ON THE ROAD. THE REASON FOR THIS THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME WAS DUE TO LOW OIL, WHICH WE RECENTLY REALIZED USES AT LEAST 1/2 QUART PER 1,000 MILES. THE DEALER SAYS THIS IS WITHIN NORMAL LIMITS. THEY SAID THAT BEFORE 50,000 MILES IT IS WITHIN NORMAL LIMITS TO BURN 1 QUART FOR EVERY 1000 MILES AND AFTER 50,000 MILES IT IS NORMAL TO BURN 1 QUART FOR EVERY 750 MILES. THIS WAS NEVER DIVULGED TO ME WHEN I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE. IT FIRST DID THIS STARTING AT 35,000 MILES. THE VEHICLE NOW HAS 42,000 MILES. THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANY OIL LIGHT OR ANY OTHER ENGINE LIGHT THAT GOES ON BEFORE THE VEHICLE DIES. IT HAS LEFT ME STRANDED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD IN SOME VERY DANGEROUS SITUATIONS. I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR AND WHO WOULD WANT TO BUY IT FROM ME? TWO DEALERSHIPS HAVE TOLD ME THAT IT IS NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE ON THIS CAR TO BURN LOTS OF OIL, TO DIE WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING IF THE OIL IS LOW, AND FOR THE OIL LIGHT NOT TO GO ON BECAUSE THE CAR WILL STOP RUNNING BEFORE THE SENSOR IS ACTIVATED. THEY TELL ME THEY HAVE SEEN THIS BEFORE. THE MAJOR PROBLEM IS THE OIL SENSOR NEVER ACTIVATES TO TELL ME THE OIL IS LOW. THEY TELL ME TO CHECK THE OIL LEVEL EVERY TIME I PUT GAS IN THE CAR. I FIND THAT TO BE AN UNACCEPTABLE SOLUTION. THE OIL HAS ALWAYS BEEN CHANGED AT NORMAL INTERVALS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. *BF UDATED 07/12/16*LJ UPDATED 11/1/2017*JS