2016 Chevrolet Cruze

2016 CHEVY CRUZE LTZ FAULTY BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE CAUSING BATTERY CORROSION, WHILE DRIVING CAR HAS POWER STEERING ERRORS (LOSS OF STABLE STEERING CAPABILITIES), TRACTION SYSTEM ERRORS, REDUCED VEHICLE POWER, PROBLEMS WITH CRUISE CONTROL (SPEEDS UP BY ITSELF). CONTACTED GM AND INFORMED THEM OF THIS ISSUE. THEY DENIED COVERAGE, DESPITE HAVING IDENTIFIED THE SAME SAFETY ISSUES WITH THE 2011-2015 MODELS.

IT DOESN'T HAPPEN ALL THE TIME BUT EVERY FEW DAYS PASSENGER SIDE DOORS STAY IT'S OPEN WHETHER I'M DRIVING OR SITTING STILL. THE LOCKS WILL TRY TO LOCK WHEN THEY ARE ALREADY LOCKED AND THE DOOR WARNING SIGN GOES OFF. ALSO IF MY FRONT TIRE NEEDS AIR THE BACK TIRE WARNING SIGN WILL GO OFF AND VICE VERSA. THE FIRST TIME I REALIZED THIS I HAD PUT AIR IN THE FRONT TIRE BUT THE LIGHT STAYED ON FOR THE BACK TIRE. WHEN I PUT AIR I THE FRONT TIRE THE BACK TIRE WARNING SIGN WENT OUT. TODAY THE RADIO WENT OUT BUT THE SCREEN DIDN'T CUT OFF. THE CAR IS PARKED AND KEYS ARE NOT IN THE IGNITION BUT THE RADIO SCREEN IS STILL LIT UP. UPDATED 11/9/18*JB

I PURCHASED MY VEHICLE LAST YEAR IN LATE SEPTEMBER. ON SEPTEMBER 22ND THIS YEAR I HAD TO HAVE A PISTON JOB PERFORMED ON MY ENGINE DUE TO THE CYLINDER #1 MISFIRING. THE TOW THAT AAA PROVIDED AND MY MECHANIC WHERE MY CAR WAS TOWED TO BOTH TOLD ME AT SEPARATE TIMES THAT MY AC BEING ON MADE THE PROBLEM WITH MY ENGINE WORSEN. MY MECHANIC ACTUALLY TOLD ME TO NOT TURN ON MY AC AS I WAS DRIVING IT OUT OF HIS GARAGE TO TAKE TO A CHEVY DEALER. AN ADVISOR AT THE DEALER INFORMED ME THAT THE TWO, THE ENGINE AND THE AC, ARE APART FROM EACH OTHER AND THE AC SHOULD NOT BE AFFECTING THE ENGINE IN THIS MANNER. AFTER THE LABOR ON MY CAR WAS COMPLETE I IMMEDIATELY NOTICE THE SAME ROUGH SHAKE WITHIN THE ENGINE AND THE LOUD SOUND COMING FROM THE AREA WHERE THE AC IS HOUSED THAT SOUNDS LIKE SOMEONE IS KNOCKING ON A DOOR OR PLAYING DRUMS OR EVEN AS IF A TRAIN IS GOING BY ON THE TRACKS. THIS WOULD HAPPEN EVERY TIME I TURNED MY AC OR HEAT ON WHETHER I WAS STATIONARY, IN MOTION, ON A CITY STREET, OR HIGHWAY. I WAS SO ACCUSTOMED TO THIS THAT I HAD NEVER THOUGHT IT MAY BE ABNORMAL BECAUSE I NEVER HAD A VEHICLE WITH AUTO STOP, WHICH IS WHAT I FIRST THOUGHT I WAS EXPERIENCING. THE PISTON JOB WAS A $6,000 JOB. FORTUNATELY, I DID NOT HAVE TO PAY THAT AMOUNT. MY CAR WAS AT 61,263 MILES WHEN I HAD TO GET IT SERVICED. I TRULY BELIEVE THAT THIS ISSUE IS A SAFETY RISK NOW BEING THAT IT IS STRAINING ON THE ENGINE AND POSSIBLY THE REASON WHY THE CYLINDER #1 FAILED FOR NO REASON WHEN MY CAR IS MAINTAINED AND NOT NEGLECTED.

MY DOOR AJAR ALARM GOES OFF NOT STOP WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION AFTER 3 MINS THE LOCKS TRY TO UNLOCK AND LOCK GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND THE DOME LIGHTS FLASH ON AND OFF. MY ALARM SYSTEM GOES OFF EVERY 10 TO 20 MIN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT OR DAY SO YOU CANT SET YOUR ALARMS AND ALL ORDER FOR THE PART ARE ON BACK ORDER. THE DOOR SENSOR TRIGGERS THE MOST WHEN MAKING A HARD RIGHT TURN. MOVING PARKED OR SITTING I DRIVE THE SENSOR STILL ALARMS OUT

THE CAR FIRST STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH SWITCHING GEARS. GOING INTO AND OUT OF DRIVE SPECIFICALLY. WOULDN'T EVEN BUDGE. DEALERSHIP SAID IT MUST BE SOMETHING STICKY SPILLED IN GEARS. HAVE HAD NO SPILLS IN THAT AREA. SOON AFTER THIS VISIT MY CAR WOULD TURN OFF IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. DEALERSHIP SAID THEY COULDN'T REPLICATE THE ISSUE SO THEY COULDN'T TELL ME WHAT IT WAS. NOW, NOT MUCH LATER THAN THE LAST VISIT, MY CAR IS SHUTTING OFF ON THE INTERSTATE, EVERY LIGHT INSIDE CAR (DOOR OPEN LIGHTS, RADIO LIGHTS, A/C LIGHTS, DASH LIGHTS) ARE DIMMING AND BRIGHTENING OR TURNING ON AND OFF ON THEIR OWN, WINDOWS ROLL UP AND DOWN ON THEIR OWN, A/C SHUTS ON AND OFF OR WILL CHANGE VENTS ON ITS OWN, BURGLAR SYSTEM DETECTION GOES OFF WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR, AND CAR WON'T START AFTER BEING OFF FOR 20-30 MINUTES WITHOUT A JUMP. THREE DIFFERENT PLACES HAVE USED BATTERY AND CODE READERS AND CANNOT FIND AN ISSUE. MY BATTERY, STARTER, AND ALTERNATOR ARE IN GREAT CONDITION. EVERY PLACE EXCEPT THE DEALERSHIP HAS TOLD ME IT'S A "MAJOR ELECTRICAL ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED ASAP." CAR IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. HAS HAD ALL WORK ASIDE FROM THE READINGS DONE AT DEALERSHIP. THEY SAY THEY CAN'T FIND OUT THE ISSUE. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME WITHIN 4 MONTHS THAT MY CAR ISSUES HAVE BEEN AVOIDED BY THE DEALERSHIP AND I HAVE BEEN TOLD THEY CAN'T REPLICATE WHAT I'M DEALING WITH WHEN THEY TEST DRIVE IT SO THEY CAN'T HELP ME. IT IS A DANGER TO ME AND ANY OTHER DRIVER AROUND ME WHEN MY CAR SUDDENLY SHUTS OFF AT 70 MPH AND I HAVE TO TRY TO PULL OVER TO PARK MY CAR TO TRY TO START IT AGAIN. CLICKING AND ZAPPING SOUNDS CAN ALSO BE HEARD FROM UNDER OR BEHIND MY ENGINE THAT SHOULD NOT BE THERE. WAS TOLD AT THE DEALERSHIP IF THEY CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT THEY WOULD HAVE TO SEND ME HOME WITH MY VEHICLE... STILL DOING ALL THESE THINGS. I HAVE BEEN THE ONLY OWNER AND DRIVER, UNDER 20K MILES ON VEHICLE, NO MODS ADDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS SHIFTED INTO PARK AND RESTARTED ON THE FIRST ATTEMPT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO HURRICANE CHEVROLET (200 SATURN WAY, HURRICANE, WV 25526, (304) 562-3005) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CONVERTER MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED BACK TO THE DEALER AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE WIRE TO WIRE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS AT THE DEALER AWAITING FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 25,000. *TT *TR