2018 Toyota Camry

Check engine light came on one day. Ignored it. The next morning was driving on the highway and noticed the car had some trouble accelerating, tried to switch lanes at ~40-60mph (don’t remember) and the car started to kick back and almost felt like it was coming to a complete stop. I was so scared the car would just stop in the middle of the highway because i couldn’t even change lanes without it kicking back/not accelerating enough. There was not a lot of traffic around so i was lucky enough to get the car into the far right lane and coast. An alert came on, almost immediately after, on the dash and was told to pull over due to the engine overheating. Looked at the heat gauge and noticed it was all the way to HOT. Got off the highway and tried to take local roads back home, the car started to kick back almost like it was about to come to a complete stop but was able to keep going local roads, didn’t pull over (was close enough to home that I didn’t want to leave my car on the side of the road if it didn’t start back up again) and the engine eventually cooled down. Got back home to put in more coolant (there was ZERO coolant, never noticed a leak) Car ran fine for about a week, then check engine light came back on. Took it to autozone for a scan, code came out as P26CB. Took it to Toyota for diagnostic and repair, the code they found was P26CB71. Was told by the service advisor that the car should’ve turned off automatically and I shouldn’t have been able to drive it so far with the engine over heating like that. Also was told that the engine was very close to “blowing up”.

The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Camry. While the contact's wife was driving approximately 5 MPH, the brake pedal was depressed; however, the pedal failed to respond. The contact's wife was able to stop the vehicle. The contact’s wife was not aware of any warning lights being illuminated. The contact had taken the vehicle to a dealer and was provided the cost for a diagnostic test. The contact informed the dealer that the VIN was included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V890000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic); however, the dealer refused to repair the vehicle. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 72,000.

multiple issues with radar sensors- disable parking assist, lane assist and rear traffic sensors due to constant malfunctioning - battery has been replaced twice within the past 6 months - vacuum pump for automatic break assist replaced APRIL 2024 - automatic brake assist failed while on vacation and car had to be driven without assisted breaks from New Orleans to Jackson MS for repair - car can only be driven in SPORT MODE otherwise there is concerning jerking and rough gear change and acceleration lag, this issue has been addressed since the date of purchase but no serious concerns expressed by maintenance professionals. Car has been having major issues now since approximately MID TO LATEJULY 2024 MORE ISSUES BEGAN - ROUGH, FLUXUATING IDLE while parked and while driving - BATTERY REPLACED, AIR FILTER REPLACED, SPARK PLUGS REPLACED, O2 SENSORS (BOTH) REPLACED, THROTTLE BODY REPLACED, IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR REPLACED; ALL JUST OVER THE COURSE OF 4 MONTHS- car sputters and rattles after getting gas - has died after being gassed up 3 separate times since AUGUST 2024- MAF SENSOR was the last part considered the potential culprit- order replacement and installed, check engine light immediately came on after installation PO607 ECM- Removed NEW MAF SENSOR and REINSTALLED OLD ONE- CODE WAS ABLE TO BE CLEARED- WAITING ON ANOTHER REPLACEMENT MAF SENSOR- TOO many codes have been thrown too list here but all parts have been replaced to "fix" the issues without success. Car stalls at redlights and stop signed. Sputters and idles erratically after filling with gas. Idle fluctuates when in park. Car has been well maintained and is my daily driver. I have 3 children and have been stranded at gas stations twice with [XXX] in generally unsafe locations during evening hours since AUGUST. I can not keep throwing money into a car with less than 200k miles on it. PLEASE HELP INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Shifted the operating car from park to drive when the car suddenly and unexpectedly took off even though I was not touching the accelerator. The car accelerated across the street and slammed into a parked car. The airbags did not deploy which would indicate a low-speed but the pre-collision system did not stop the car which would indicate higher- speed. My car was written off as a complete loss by my insurance carrier and the damage to the parked car that was hit was extensive.

Out of nowhere, the steering became very stiff and there was lots of difficulty with the wheel returning to center. This put myself and others at risk as it would be difficult to steer and in a moment where I would have to react fast to avoid an accident, my car would not be able to help. My car was initially inspected by a mechanic that ran diagnostics and nothing electrical showed up. My car is currently getting looked at by a Toyota Dealership. I was told there was a recall in 2022 for the intermediate shaft assembly being faulty. My car showed no signs on the dashboard of any issues. It was just random.

The transmission has completely malfunctioned. The car started stalling in traffic. It then stopped registering gears and stopped pulling. The car was taken to a shop who stated transmissions issues along with a brake assist failure. The torque converter has not been released by Toyota. My car has 139000 miles. I have researched this issue and many others have reported the same problem!

Couple days ago I notice both my tailights weren’t working also my license plates lights and parking lights weren’t working and also my headlights parking light don’t work anymore they all went bad at the same time. At night time nobody can’t barely see me besides my reflectors so nobody can’t see my at night time. The only thing tht works is mine brake light turn signal and brake light.