Nissan Altima electrical problems

I WAS DRIVING ON A CITY STREET AT 30 MILES AN HOUR, WHEN I APPROACHED THE INTERSECTION TO TAKE A TIGHT HAND TURN I WAS YIELDING FOR ONCOMING TRAFFIC COMPLETELY STOPPED . WHEN I WENT TO SLIGHTLY MOVE FORWARD TO SEE IF I HAD THE RIGHT AWAY MY CAR JOLTED FORWARD. JUST SPED UP AND WOULD NOT RESPOND TO DE ACCELERATION. I ALMOST CRASHED INTO CHILDREN CROSSING A SIDE WALK. THE ACCELERATION WAS COMPLETELY OUT OF MY CONTROL. THIS HAS HAPPENED A COUPLE OTHER TIMES JUST NOT AS SIGNIFICANT. I DID NOTICE IT'S HAPPENING WHOLE MY AC IS ON.

SIR/MADAM, I FILED A COMPLAINT ALREADY FILE #11243824. BACK IN AUGUST. NISSAN CALLED ME BUT NO ACTION TAKEN. I CAN NOT SEE AT NIGHT BECAUSE THE LENSES ARE DEFECTIVE. I CHANGE THE LIGHT BULB 3 TIMES. IT IS NOT THE LIGHT BULB IT'S THE MIRROR SURROUNDING IT. THERE ARE 48 SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE LIGHT IS DIM IN THE SAME EXACT CAR.

2018 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS A DEFECTIVE PUSH START AND BRAKING SYSTEM. UNABLE TO START CAR WITH PUSH START BECAUSE IT FEELS AS IF THE BRAKES ARE STUCK. HAVE TO CONTINOUSLY PUMP THE BREAK IN A EFFORT TO GET THE BRAKE TO RELEASE IN ORDER TO START THE CAR. THERE IS ALSO AN ISSUE WITH THE FRONT RADAR SENSORS. I WHILE IN MOTION I RANDOMLY RECEIVE AN AUDIBLE ALERT AND WARNING MESSAGE SAYING THAT THE FRONT RADAR IS UNAVAILABLE DUE TO OBSTRUCTION YET THERE WOULD NOTHING IN FRONT OF THE CAR.

2016 NISSAN ALTIMA. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO DEFECTIVE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG AND DEFECTIVE KEYLESS PUSH BUTTON. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED OTHER FAILURES INCLUDED REAR DOORS OPENING INDEPENDENTLY, ENGINE WAS LOUD, TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS WERE INOPERABLE, AND THE EMERGENCY COMMUNICATION LIGHTS WERE CONSTANTLY LIT. THE CONSUMER STATED ALL THE REPAIRS WERE TO BE REPAIRED UNDER RECALL. THE CONSUMER WAS UNSURE THAT THE DEALER ACTUALLY COMPLETED THE RECALLS AS IT ONLY TOOK AN HOUR TO BE COMPLETED. *JS

THE POWER OUTLET IN THE CENTER CONSOLE HAD GONE BAD SO MY HUSBAND CHANGED THE FUSE AND AS SOON AS I STARTED TO DRIVE, MY CAR STARTED JUMPING AND WOULD NOT GO OVER 15MPH. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAD BOTH COME ON. I TURNED THE CAR OFF FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS THEN CRANKED IT AGAIN, THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WAS OFF AND THE CAR DROVE FINE. NOW AT RANDOM TIMES, USUALLY IF THE CAR IS LEFT IDLING, THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WILL COME BACK ON AND THE SAME THING HAPPENS BUT IF I TURN THE CAR OFF FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS THEN CRANK IT AGAIN, THE LIGHT IS OFF AND THE CAR RUNS FINE AGAIN. THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR WAS REPLACED IN 2017 BUT THAT IS THE CODE WE KEEP GETTING WHEN IT IS HOOKED TO A COMPUTER. THE TRANSMISSION WAS ALSO REPLACED IN 2017, NO ISSUES WITH IT SO FAR... NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON WITH MY CAR BUT IT'S PRETTY SCARY WHEN I'M DRIVING WITH MY 3 KIDS AND THE CAR DECIDES TO LOSE POWER, JUMP ALL OVER THE ROAD AND ONLY DRIVE 15MPH. THIS HAPPENS AT LEAST 3 TIMES A DAY AND SINCE THIS IS MY PRIMARY WAY OF TRANSPORTATION, I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THIS ISSUE SO IT CAN BE FIXED AND I CAN SAFELY TRANSPORT MY CHILDREN AGAIN.

THIS WAS A USED PRE-CERTIFIED CAR, PURCHASED FROM THE DEALER IN WHICH DID NOT HAVE ANY ISSUES UNTIL ITS WARRANTY WAS PRACTICALLY NO LONGER VALID. THE CARS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTED TO HAVE ISSUES. THE ISSUES WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTED WITH THE USB PORT CONNECTION TO A CELLULAR DEVICE. SOMETIMES THE CAR WILL RECOGNIZE THE PHONE, OTHER TIMES I HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE USB TO PHONE CONNECTION, TURN THE USB CORD AROUND AND RECONNECT A FEW TIMES FOR THE RADIO TO RECOGNIZE THE PHONE. AFTER THIS ISSUES, ONE SPEAKER WENT OUT. LATER ON, A SECOND SPEAKER WENT OUT. I REPLACED BOTH SPEAKERS TO FIND OUT THAT IT IS POSSIBLE THE IN-CAR AMPLIFIER BLEW. AFTER THIS, THE RADIO UNIT WOULD AT TIMES GO COMPLETELY BLACK, CAUSING ME TO HAVE TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON. AFTER THIS, THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR NO LONGER LOCKS ELECTRONICALLY, I HAVE TO LOCK AND UNLOCK DRIVER SIDE DOOR MANUALLY BUT THE PASSENGER SIDE DOES INDEED WORK. AFTER THESE ISSUES, I NOTICED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAD COME ON FOR A MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. I CLEANED THE SENSOR, AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT AWAY. ABOUT 300 MILES LATER, IT CAME BACK ON AND THE CAR HESITATES/BUCKS CONSISTENTLY WITH A LOSS OF POWER ONCE THE SPEED HITS ABOUT 60 MPH. I-75 HILLS, I CAN NO LONGER ACCELERATE TO MAINTAIN SPEEDS. I REPLACED THE MAF SENSOR, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON. I HAD IT CLEARED FROM O'REILLY'S SINCE THE SAME CODE WAS APPEARING ON THE CAR. AFTER 10 MILES SITTING IN IDLE, THE TRACTION CONTROL SENSOR APPEARED. 10 MILES AFTERWARDS THIS ON I-75, THE CAR WILL NOT CLIMB HILLS, DROPS POWER, BUCKS AND JERKS THE CAR FORWARD AND BACK. I STOPPED AT A PART STORE, TURN THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON. TRACTION CONTROL SENSOR GOES AWAY, ENGINE LIGHT COMES BACK ON WITH SAME CODE READING. I CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON. I'VE READ A LOT OF ARTICLES ABOUT THIS, NO ONE HAS FIGURED OUT HOW TO FIX THIS.