2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse

With my vehicle the brakes go straight to the floor. I took it to the mitsubishi dealership closest to me (Bobmills mitsubishi Jacksonville Nc). When I got there i told them what was going on, and if you bleed the brakes they worked fine for 3 or 4 days but after that the brakes would just go to the floor again. They said they bleed the brakes to replace the fluid and then tested the ABS module for a recall and said it was fine but I had a collapsed brake line in the rear. I replaced all the brake lines on the vehicle and did a complete bleed again to remove any air. The brakes now go all the way to the floor again. I was trying to bleed them just to see if I could get some pressure, but 3 of the lines aren't getting pressure. I decided to check and bleed at the master cylinder, I had plenty of pressure coming out so I know that's good. Then I checked the bleed pressure at the ABS module thats on the recall and I am only getting pressure from the drivers front tire, the other 3 are not giving pressure at all, even if you pump the brakes while they are open. So I know the cylinders in that ABS module are bad. So I called the dealership again and they are refusing to do it because they said they don't work on vehicles that old.

Brakes consistently fail to hold pressure and are letting go. I purchased this car back in April and the previous owner had no idea of the recall. Did a bit of research and found it's a defect in the system. Once the car fails to hold pressure I have to very rapidly spam the break pedal to get a sliver of pressure so my car can come to a stop. Breaking with little pressure grinds the brakes and doesn't stop the car.

VEHICLE IS FOR SALE SITTING ON NAPLETON HYUNDAI OF CARMEL'S USED CAR LOT, 4200 EAST 96TH STREET INDIANAPOLIS,IN 46240. I JUST PAID FOR AND SIGNED PAPERWORK FOR AN 2007 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SE, I HAVEN'T TAKEN OWNERSHIP AS FAR A DRIVING IT OFF LOT AFTER PAY/SIGN. CAR FAX WAS SHOWN TO ME B4 SIGNING, IT'S BEEN 2 DAYS AND I HAVEN'T TAKEN OFF LOT YET (FRONT D SIDE CALIPER BRACKET SLIDE/GLIDE PINS ARE SEIZED UP, BRAKE PADS LOCKED ONTO ROTOR. I WILL NOT DRIVE CAR UNTIL DEALER COMPLETES RECALL. I WAS LIED TO ABOUT A COUPLE THINGS SO I'M GOING TO TRY TO BACK OUT OF PURCHASE, THAT'S WHY THE COMPLAINT, I DON'T WANT TO SEE THEM IGNORE RECALL AND SOMEONE ELSE BUYS CAR AND SOMETHING HORRIBLE HAPPENS!!

I HAVE EXPERIENCED AT LEAST 5 BRAKE FAILURES WHERE THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR. I HAVE HAD 3 MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENTS AND HAVE TAKEN THE CAR TO A CERTIFIED MECHANIC MULTIPLE TIMES TRYING TO FIX THE PROBLEM. AFTER FINDING OUT ABOUT SAFETY RECALL SR-15-004, I TOOK VEHICLE TO MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE RECALL REPAIRED ON 6/15/18. THEY FLUSHED OUT THE ABS SYSTEM AND REPLACED DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID WITH DOT 4, RAN ABS SYSTEM TEST AND IT CAME OUT "OK NO REPAIR TO ABS NEEDED AT THIS TIME." SINCE THEN, I HAVE EXPERIENCED 7 MORE BRAKE FAILURES WHERE THE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR. MY CERTIFIED MECHANIC WAS FINALLY ABLE TO RE-CREATE THE INCIDENT, WHICH SEEMS TO HAPPEN AFTER, NOT DURING, BRAKING OVER ROUGH ROAD SURFACES. THE BRAKE PEDAL USUALLY COMES RIGHT BACK UP AFTER A FEW SECONDS OR MINUTES, AND IS FINE UNTIL ANOTHER BRAKING INCIDENT OVER ROUGH ROAD. THERE ARE NO CODES DELIVERED AT ALL DURING THESE INSTANCES. MY MECHANIC AND I BOTH ARE CONVINCED THAT THESE OCCURRENCES ARE RELATED TO THE RECALL PROBLEM OF DETERIORATION INSIDE THE ABS UNIT, AS NO OTHER BRAKE PROBLEMS EXIST. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING SEPTEMBER 2016 (MILEAGE 72,563) UNTIL PRESENT (AUGUST 4, 2018, MILEAGE 96,783) AND IS A VERY, VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM!!!

I WAS DRIVING ON A DEAD END STREET AND THE BRAKES WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND I HAD NO STOPPING OR SLOWING DOWN EVEN WITH PUMPING THE BRAKES I HAD THE BRAKES CHECKED A MONTH PRIOR TO THIS BECAUSE THE BRAKE AND ABS LIGHT WOULD COME ON RANDOMLY AND THE TECHNICIAN AT MORRIES MAZDA REPORTED TO ME THEY WERE OPERATIONAL.. I ENDED UP HITTING A TREE (MY CHOICES WERE A LINE OF CARS OR A TREE, SO I PICKED THE TREE) WITH THE BRAKE MALFUNCTION AND NO AIR BAGS DEPLOYED AT AROUND 30 PLUS MPH. AND I SUSTAINED INJURIES. WHEN I LOOKED AT THE BRAKES IT APPEARED THAT THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE BRAKE WAS THE ONLY OPERATIONAL BRAKE AS IT WAS THE ONLY ROTOR TO NOT HAVE ACCUMULATED A HIGH AMOUNT OF RUST.

MY CAR WAS STOLEN LAST YEAR BY SOMEONE I KNEW, AND WAS WRECKED. AFTER THE WRECK, MYSELF AND PENNSYLVANIA STATE POLICE SPOKE TO THE PERSON AND HE SAID THE ACCIDENT WAS CAUSED BECAUSE THE BRAKES FAILED TO ENGAGE AS HE WAS MAKING A TURN AND THE RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARM FAILED, WHICH CAUSED THE TIE ROD TO SNAP WHICH PUNCTURED THROUGH THE WHEEL AND OUT THE TIRE. DAMAGE DONE TO THE VEHICLE CONFIRMS THIS, AND I HAVE PICTURES AND DOCUMENTATION TO SUPPORT THIS CLAIM. CAR WAS LEFT ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITH ENTIRE FRONT RIGHT SUSPENSION DETACHED, CV SHAFT RIPPED OUT FROM THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION, ENTIRE FRONT RIGHT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY WAS RIPPED OFF, CALIPER, BRAKE PADS AND ROTOR REMAINED ATTACHED TO THE HUB, BUT WERE DISCONNECTED FROM THE VEHICLE. THE WHEEL ALSO REMAINED INTACT ON THE HUB. THERE WAS SIGNIFICANT FRONT END DAMAGE TO THE BUMPER, FENDER, INNER WHEEL HUB SPLASH GUARDS, HEADLIGHT, ETC. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. HIS SEAT BELT DID NOT LOCK ON IMPACT. CAR WAS TOTALED AND CONSIDERED SALVAGE, BUT I RECONSTRUCTED IT AND HAVE OVER $4,500 INVESTED IN REPAIRS THAT COULD HAVE BEEN AVOIDED IF THE BRAKES AND LOWER CONTROL ARM WORKED PROPERLY. HE WAS TRAVELING ON A SIDE STREET THROUGH A SMALL TOWN AROUND 11PM ON A CLEAR, WARM NIGHT. NO OTHER MOVING CARS WERE ON THE ROAD AT THE TIME, BUT HE DID SIDE SWIPE SEVERAL PARKED CARS.

5 YEARS AFTER BUYING VEHICLE, BRAKE PEDAL WOULD SPORADICALLY PUSH ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. TOOK ME 3 YEARS FOR SOMEONE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG WITH SPONGY, WHISTLING BRAKES. ABS HYDRAULIC UNIT HAD GREASE CAKED UNDER IT, AND THE SHOP WOULD NOT LET ME DRIVE MY CAR BECAUSE IT WAS TOO DANGEROUS. HAD ABS SYSTEM REPLACED ON MY $, A YEAR LATER A RECALL CAME OUT ON THE ABS HYDRAULIC UNIT. MITSUBISHI DENIED MY CLAIM FOR REIMBURSEMENT BECAUSE THE PLACE THAT FIXED IT FAILED TO WRITE ON THE FORM THE REASONS I CAME IN TO GET IT FIXED. APPARENTLY I'M GOING TO HAVE AN $800 PART REPLACED FOR NO REASON. FOUND ON NHTSA THE INDICATORS OF A BAD PART AND THE FACT THAT IT IS DOCUMENTED MY ABS LIGHT CAME ON SHOULD BE ENOUGH. ALSO, PASSENGER SIDE DOOR: THE AUTOMATIC LOCK NO LONGER WORKS AND THERE IS NO KEY HOLE ON THAT SIDE; COULD BE A SLIGHT ISSUE BUT IS MORE ANNOYING THAN ANYTHING AND PUTS CAR AT RISK FOR THEFT.