2016 Mazda MAZDA6

The vehicle exhibits dangerous electronic malfunctions. A licensed technician (MV-113255) has confirmed a sporadic unintended acceleration defect where the cruise control 'decrease' button causes the vehicle to increase speed. Additionally, the vehicle repeatedly enters 'Limp Mode' in active traffic, causing a violent jerk and a total loss of acceleration while displaying a 'Smart City Brake Support' (SCBS) failure on the dashboard. An independent inspection also documented gross mechanical neglect, including loose battery terminals and a loose transmission bellhousing bolt, which may contribute to these intermittent electrical/safety failures.

When driving, after a period of 10 - 20 minutes usually, of the adaptive cruise being on (not necessarily in use), the buttons on the steering wheel will re-map. That is, the + button for adjusting the cruise speed up by 1 mph increments will switch with the - button that adjusts the cruise speed down by 1 mph increments. This happens reliably... if I've driven the car with adaptive cruise on for more that 10 - 20 minutes, the buttons will re-map. + slows the car down or doesn't work at all (does nothing). - speeds the car up. Also, rarely, the cancel button will speed the car up. Often the cancel button will not work and the only way to disengage the adaptive cruise is to tap on the brake pedal. Less frequently--maybe about 1/3 - 1/2 of the time, the "off" button, which turns the adaptive cruise off entirely, will not work. Note, that this is not the "engage" or "enable" button. These are the buttons that just turn on and off the adaptive cruise and show that it is now ready to be set if on. I discussed this with the dealer. I believe it is a software problem, they cannot find a software problem as they patched the software in the car up to the latest version. They want to replace the steering wheel where the switches are. This is a $750 repair. (I'm not sure if it's the whole steering wheel or the switch cluster on the wheel.) I cannot afford it and I'm not convinced it will work. I believe they are just guessing at a solution. Nothing to my knowledge has ever spilled on the steering wheel to potentially damage the switchgear. Also, this, to me, does not explain how it always works correctly for the first 10 - 20 minutes of driving, then fails reliably after that. This problem has existed for over two years. Since the car has had about 100,000 miles on it.

I WAS BRAKING TO A STOP AFTER DECELLERATING, DRIVING ORIGINALLY ABOUT 45 MPH. TRAFFIC WAS STOPPED IN FRONT OF ME. I WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY, GOING STRAIGHT AHEAD. MY CAR SLOWED BUT RESISTED STOPPING. I PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL HARDER UNTIL I CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP. MY RIGHT FOOT WAS ENTIRELY ON THE BRAKE, AS I ONLY USE MY RIGHT FOOT TO OPERATE THE PEDALS. THE ENGINE WAS REVVING LIKE IT WAS ACCELLERATING. THE CAR WAS IN DRIVE. NO WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON THE DASH. THE ENGINE CONTINUED TO REV HIGHER IN INTENSITY. I PUT THE CAR INTO PARK, AND THE ENGINE REVVED MUCH HIGHER. I PUSHED THE START/STOP BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR. THE WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON THE DASH. I WAS ABLE TO ROLL DOWN THE POWER WINDOW EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF. I TRIED TO RESTART THE CAR AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE. THE STARTER ENGAGED, BUT THE CAR DID NOT START. I TRIED TWICE AGAIN AND IT DID THE SAME THING. I TRIED A FOURTH TIME AND IT REACTED AS IF THE BATTERY WAS ALMOST DEAD, SOME SOUND BUT NO MOVEMENT. I COULDN'T PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL TO HAVE THE ATTENDING POLICE OFFICER PUSH IT OUT OF THE LANE OF TRAFFIC, AND WE NOTICED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE WAS ENGAGED. I DID NOT ENGAGE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE MYSELF! MY HUSBAND ARRIVED, AND HE AND THE OFFICER WERE ABLE TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL, HOWEVER, THEY WERE UNABLE TO DISENGAGE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. THE CAR HAD TO BE LOADED ONTO A ROLL-OFF WRECKER TO BE TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE CRUISE CONTROL ENGAGED AND WOULD NOT TURN OFF. LESTER RAINES MAZDA (5035 MACCORKLE AVE SW, SOUTH CHARLESTON, WV 25309, (304) 768-1251) INFORMED THE CONTACT TO DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL TO RESET THE COMPUTER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 65,000. *DT CONSUMER STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 55MPH CRUISE CONTROL WAS ENGAGED BUT CRUISE CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED. ONLY WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL DEPRESSED DID IT CANCEL. *JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CRUISE CONTROL WOULD NOT CEASE TO FUNCTION AND WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DISENGAGE IT THE VEHICLE WOULD INCREASE IN SPEED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE FAILURE OCCURRED SIX TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CRUISE CONTROL BUTTONS NEEDED TO REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 34,000.

I WAS ABOUT TO PARK THE CAR IN A PARKING SPOT IN A MALL. IT WAS CRAWLING SPEED AND ALMOST ABOUT TO STOP. THEN THE CAR SUDDENLY SURGED FORWARD AND WENT OVER THE CURB ON TO THE OTHER SIDE. THANKFULLY THERE WAS NO OTHER VEHICLE OR PERSON ON THE OTHER SIDE. I WAS HOLDING TIGHT THE STEERING WHEEL. MY HUSBAND PULLED THE ELECTRONIC PARKING BREAK BUTTON AND THE CAR FINALLY CAME TO A STOP. TIRES WERE BURST ON RUNNING OVER AND THERE WAS DAMAGE TO FRONT LEFT SIDE OF CAR. I BELIEVE THIS COULD BE AN ISSUE OF UNINTENDED ACCELERATION.