2023 Hyundai Ioniq 5

I heard a pop from the rear of the car and warnings came up on the dash. The vehicle was power limited and needed to be towed to the dealer. It was diagnosed as an ICCU failure and blown fuse. This was the problem supposedly addressed in Hyundai TSB 997 (NHTSA ID Number: 10240086). That service was performed on the vehicle in September 2023. We were lucky the incident occurred on a city street and not on a freeway or rural highway where the sudden loss of power could have been very dangerous. The software fix applied under Hyundai’s TSB clearly did not fix the issue.

Driver was moving forward into a space in a parking garage between two other vehicles. Driver had pulled most of the way in and was slowly inching forward. As the car came to a stop, it suddenly lurched forward, hitting a concrete wall. The collision warning system did not alert, and auto-braking did not occur. The car was in Regen Level 3, and Auto Hold was not activated. In the months prior to this, the car twice had a similar situation when coming to a stop at an intersection with foot on the brake, then suddenly lurched forward, nearly rear-ending a car in front. There was no visible damage to the concrete wall, and a police report was not made. Hyundai says they want to inspect vehicle, but have not done so after a month. It is easy to believe that this was driver error, but it absolutely was not. Car lunged forward and accelerated into a wall with only the brake being applied. All of these events have occurred after the Hyundai Ioniq 5 software update was applied on 26 Sep 2023.

Driving the vehicle on the highway for longer than 60 miles at highway speeds the vehicle goes into “power limited” mode and a turtle pops up on the screen. You are unable to accelerate the car and once this happens you have to leave the car off for at least 5 minutes and then not drive above 65mph again or it will keep happening over and over. After taking it to the shop Hyundai Corporate said we need to drive the car again to see if they had fixed it. Approximately 65 miles into the trip it happened again and this time I was almost rear ended and cars were swerving around me on the shoulder to avoid crashing into me. Hyundai is saying that they cannot reproduce the issue but they are not driving the car on the highway for more than 60 miles. The safety of not only myself and my family is at risk as well as other people on the highway behind and next to us. The vehicle is currently at the dealership and they said there are no error codes so they don’t know what’s wrong. The only warning that popped up said “power limited” with a turtle.

Driving on the freeway at approximately 70 mph, the car lost the ability to accelerate and started to lose speed. I had my foot on the gas but the speed was dropping. There were no warning lights, messages, or other alerts prior to the loss of acceleration. The screen remained on during the loss of acceleration but a phone call was lost. Safety at risk for obvious reasons. I was able to put hazards on and move to the left-hand shoulder. I turned the car off and on again and was able to speed up again to merge onto the freeway. For the remainder of the drive (approx 25 min), everything was fine. We have not taken the car in yet for inspection. The car charge was over 50%. I had driven the car on the freeway with no issues for an hour earlier in the morning, for 15 min in the city, and then for another 25 minutes on the freeway prior to the incident.

The car does not switch from Reverse to Drive under certain conditions, resulting in uncommanded reverse motion. Gear selection on the Ioniq 5 is controlled by a twisting knob at the end of a stalk on the steering column. Drive is selected by turning upwards, Reverse by turning downwards. The moving part springs back into the neutral position once a gear is selected. Occasionally the car does not switch from Reverse to Drive. This is extremely dangerous as the vehicle shoots backwards when the driver is expecting it to move forward. A driver will likely press the accelerator more firmly after having physically moved the gear selector to Drive and expecting the vehicle to move forward. Since this happens after backing up, it is likely that obstacles or persons are behind the car when this happens, and absent a very fast reaction by the driver this will result in accidents and injuries. The issue is triggered when the car is not at a complete standstill when Drive is selected. Even barely noticeable residual backward motion triggers it. There is no haptic feedback to alert the driver that the car ignored the driver input. As drivers are expected to pay attention to their surroundings when maneuvering, visual feedback (via the gear indicator on the stalk and possibly a dashboard notification) is not useful. There is a small auditory cue, but it is easily missed when in a conversation or listening to music, especially because the car frequently dings, pings, and beeps for other reasons. Not to mention, hearing-impaired drivers will also miss this. The driver should not be able to physically move the gear selector into the Drive position when the car is not accepting that input - the twisty bit should be locked out to prevent this. Or at the very least, if a crucial driver input is discarded, the car should instead default to a safe behavior, i.e. put the car in Neutral instead of Reverse.

Driving on freeway when adaptive cruise control turns off and had a sudden complete loss of acceleration, we had steering and brakes only. Sudden reduction of car speed in traffic could cause accident. Has only happened once in 20k miles. (no acceleration) Adaptive cruise control shuts off for no reason, but dealer couldn't replicate. In recent 8k trip we photographed warning on dash 17 + times after shut down. Dealer couldn't find any saved trouble codes for this. No warnings prior to any occurrence only after, dash turned off on acceleration loss.

After owning and driving the 2023 Ioniq 5 for about 4 months, the car was driven from Massachusetts to Arizona. After driving across the county at 75 mph about 50 min on cruse control the car began to lurch, the speed would drop about 3 mph below the cruse control set point, then accelerate to a mile faster than the set point and then settle down to the set point. This would happen multiple times during the next 100 miles before stopping to charge. After charging and again on cruse control at 75 mph or so, the lurching would begin again. After the lurching started, the power display indicated the front motor on this dual motor vehicle was doing all the work to drive the car, and the rear motor was no longer functioning. Later it was confirmed that the rear EOP (electric oil pump) which cools the rear motor was not functioning at all. As a result the rear motor would increase to more than 170 degrees F and stop operating. No DTC was stored for the EOP Actual Speed of zero (despite an EOP Command Speed for 800-3000 rpms). No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Temperature overheat. No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Actual Torque of zero when it was commanded for something more. Fortunately the Hyundai Ioniq 5 did command the front motor to take over even though the rear motor was no longer functional, so the car was able to maintain speed most of the time. However, the car is normally 325 hp with both motors. Accelerating with only the 95hp front motor on a heavy car was very slow, both in traffic and on the highway. The lack of performance could easily surprise an unsuspecting driver resulting in a collision or worse. I know of at least 5 owners who have experienced this issue. In each case Hyundai has been slow at best and refused to repair at worst. The issue is without DTC but can none the less be easily diagnosed by observing the ODB EOP Actual Speed (when the car is driven) will be zero with an EOP Command Speed >0 .

Occasionally, the vehicle sometimes doesn't start and allow me to engage to Drive gear from being turned off/Parked. I sometimes have to turn the car off and back on 1-2 times for the car to start like normal and allow me to select drive or reverse. Additionally, I have never been able to successfully sync my vehicle with my hyundai bluelink account despite efforts to troubleshoot with Bluelink representatives.