2008 Dodge Caliber

I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK AND GETTING ONTO A FREEWAY ENTRANCE, WHEN RIGHT WHEN I WAS MERGING, MY CAR COMPLETELY LOST THROTTLE CONTROL AND BOGGED DOWN. IT WAS VERY FOGGY OUTSIDE AND A SEMI TRUCK ALMOST RAN INTO THE BACK OF MY CAR. I WAS ABLE TO GET OFF THE FREEWAY AND HOME WITH MY CAR IN WHAT IS KNOWN AS LIMP MODE. THERE WAS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, ONLY A RED LIGHTNING BOLT LIGHT, AND MY ESP (TRACTION CONTROL) WAS ON ALSO. UPON DOING SOME RESEARCH I HAVE FOUND THAT THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE BODY GOES OUT IN THESE CARS QUITE A BIT. NO BODY IN MY CITY HAD ONE AND LUCKILY I WAS ABLE TO SOURCE ONE FROM ANOTHER STATE. EVERYONE THAT WAS OUT SAID THEY WERE ON BACK ORDER. THIS FURTHER CONFIRMED MY THOUGHTS THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ALONG WITH READING ABOUT 10 OTHER CASES AND A CAR FORUM WHERE THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MANY MEMBER THERE ALSO. I UNDERSTAND THINGS WEAR DOWN AND BREAK AND NEED TO BE REPLACED, BUT WITH MY CAR ONLY HAVING 70,000 MILES ON IT I FIND IT A LITTLE RIDICULOUS, AND ON THAT FORUM THERE ARE SOME WHERE THEIR THROTTLE BODIES HAVE GONE OUT AT 30,000 MILES. I'M JUST SURPRISED THAT NO BODY HAS BEEN SERIOUSLY INJURED OR KILLED IN ACCIDENT BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE. ONE PARTICULAR MEMBER ON THE FORUM I READ HE STATED THAT THE CAR HAD COMPLETELY DIED ON HIM IN THE MIDDLE OF A BUSY INTERSECTION. I HAVE A 4 YEAR OLD SON AND IT JUST BUGS ME TO THINK THAT WHAT IF I HAD HIM IN THE CAR AND THAT SEMI WASN'T ABLE TO MOVE OUT OF THE WAY IN TIME? ALL I'M ASKING IS THAT DODGE EITHER MAKES A BETTER QUALITY THROTTLE BODY AND PUTS OUT A RECALL OR AT LEAST REPLACES THE THROTTLE BODY UNDER THE RECALL FOR FREE. I HAVE WROTE TO DODGES CUSTOMER COMPLAINT DEPARTMENT, BUT HAVE NOT HEARD ANYTHING BACK SO I FIGURED MAYBE I WOULD TRY HERE AND SEE IF ANYTHING CAN BE DONE. *TR

VEHICLE IS AN AUTOMATIC, 2.0L ENGINE. WHILE AT A STOP, IN ANY GEAR, FOOT ON OR OFF THE BRAKE, MY CAR WILL IDLE ROUGHLY, RPMS FLUCTUATE RAPIDLY BETWEEN 200-900 OR HIGHER, AND THE VEHICLE WILL SOMETIMES STALL AND SHUT DOWN WHILE DOING THIS. THIS ROUGH IDLE AND STALLING OUT WILL ALSO HAPPEN WHILE SLOWING DOWN/DECELERATING, AS WELL AS ACCELERATING FROM A STOP OR SLOWER SPEEDS. THE ISSUE TENDS TO HAPPEN MORE WHEN THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE HAS WARMED UP A BIT FROM NORMAL DRIVING, BUT HAS OCCURRED AT LOWER TEMPERATURES AS WELL. I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO MY LOCAL DODGE DEALERSHIP AT LEAST THREE TIMES IN THE PAST THREE MONTHS; ON THE FIRST VISIT, THEY REPLACED THE PCV VALVE, IGNITION COIL, AND SPARK PLUGS ($400); ON THE NEXT TWO VISITS, THEY CLAIM THEY CANNOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE, AND NO ERROR CODES APPEAR ON THEIR DIAGNOSTIC COMPUTERS. I HAVE HAD THE FUEL INJECTORS CLEANED, AND HAD OTHER MECHANICS INSPECT THE CAR; THEY CANNOT FIND ANY NEEDED REPAIRS OR ERROR CODES, BUT THEY HAVE BEEN ABLE TO REPLICATE THE ISSUE. THE CAR CONTINUES TO EXPERIENCE THIS ISSUE, NO MATTER WHAT REPAIRS I HAVE DONE. I AM IN CONTACT WITH CHRYSLER/DODGE CORPORATE CUSTOMER RELATIONS, AND HAVE AN OPEN CASE WITH THEM, THOUGH THEY AND THE DEALERSHIP STATE MY CAR "HAS NO WARRANTY WITH DODGE," AND THUS THE ISSUE ISN'T COVERED, NOR DO I HAVE ANY CLAIM TO FINANCIAL SUPPORT FROM CHRYSLER/DODGE. MY VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY AT MY LOCAL DODGE DEALERSHIP, IN HOPES THEY MIGHT FINALLY BE ABLE TO REPLICATE THE ISSUE AND FIND A CAUSE/FIX. *TR

I HAVE REPLACED THE BULBS MULTIPLE TIMES ON THE TURN SIGNALS. THE BRAKE LIGHTS CONTINUE TO COME ON AND OFF AT THEIR LEISURE . SOMETIMES, THE TURN SIGNALS ON THE FRONT WORK AND SOMETIMES NOT. THIS IS BECOMING A REGULAR INCIDENT AND IS VERY DANGEROUS SINCE I DRIVE LONG DISTANCES FREQUENTLY. I ALSO HAVE BEEN STOPPED BY LAW ENFORCEMENT SEVERAL TIMES FOR DEFECTIVE BULBS, LUCKILY ONLY WARNINGS SO FAR.

THE MAIN ISSUE IS NOT BEING ABLE TO TAKE THE CAR OUT OF "PARK" WHEN IT IS RUNNING. FOR THE PAST YEAR IT HAS HAPPENED INTERMITTENTLY. THE LAST 2 DAYS NONE OF MY TRYING AND RETRYING TO GET IT OUT OF PARK WORKS. ALSO, MY WINDSHIELD WIPERS COME ON WHENEVER THEY FEEL LIKE IT. MOSTLY UPON STARTING. I ALSO CANNOT RESET MY CHANGE OIL LIGHT. *TR

AFTER TURNING ON MY CAR IT BEGAN TO LUNGE WHILE IN IDLE. AS I ATTEMPTED TO BACK IT OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL HAD LITTLE TO NO EFFECT. THE CAR WOULD NOT DRIVE MORE THAN 10 MPH, STILL LUNGING. THE INDICATOR LIGHT FOR THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (ETC) LIT UP AND STARTED BLINKING. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALER AND THE DIAGNOSTIC ($150) PROVED IT TO BE THE ETC. THE ETC KIT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED WHICH APPARENTLY IS A "DEALER ONLY" PART. THIS IS SUCH A COMMON OCCURRENCE FOR DODGE THAT THE ETC KIT IS ON BACK ORDER AND WILL NOT BE AVAILABLE FOR 2 WEEKS! NOT TO MENTION THE PART COSTS $600+. AND BY THE WAY, I HAD TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION REPLACED IN 2011! *TR

WHILE DRIVING A 2008 DODGE CALIBER SE IN A STREET BETWEEN 40MPH AND 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY SHUTDOWN ITSELF. FIVE SECOND LATER AND AFTER PULLING OVER AS CLOSE AS I COULD TO THE CURVE OF THE ROAD, THE CAR DIED. I TRIED TO RESTART THE ENGINE TO MOVE IT OUT OF THE WAY OF THE TRAFFIC, BUT THE VEHICLE DID NOT START. SMOKE STARTED COMING OUT UNDER THE HOOD, AND AFTER FURTHER EXAMINATION, I SAW SPARKS AND SMOKE COMING OUT OFF THE FUSES' BOX. I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY AND WAITED FOR THE SMOKE TO CLEAR UP. USING A FLASH LIGHT, I FOUND OUT THAT ONE OF THE CIRCUIT CARD IN THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) SHORTED AND MELTED PART OF THE PLASTIC COVER. THE VEHICLE COULDN'T BE PUT IN NEUTRAL, AND THE BREAK PEDAL AND STEERING WHEEL WERE INOPERATIVE. IF THIS INCIDENT HAPPENED IN A HIGH WAY, I AM SURE THAT THE INCOMING TRAFFIC COULD HAVE HIT MY CAR WITH SPEED OVER 65MPH DUE TO SUDDENLY DECELERATION AND LACK OF VEHICLE'S RESPONSE TO THE DRIVER'S COMMANDS. MY WIFE, THREE YEARS OLD DAUGHTER AND I COULD HAVE BEEN INVOLVED IN A FATAL CRASH. *TR

I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK, HEADLIGHTS AND DASH LIGHTS STARTED TO FLICKER, ALL THE INDICATOR LIGHT ON THE DASH CAME ON. SMOKE STARTED COMING IN THE VENTS INTO THE VEHICLE WENT TO STOP, BRAKES GRABBED FOR A SECOND THEN WENT OUT COMPLETELY, EVEN SHIFTING THE VEHICLE TO PARK DID NOTHING. STOPPED THE VEHICLE BY HITTING GUARD RAIL CALLED POLICE, WITHIN MINUTES THE ENTIRE FRONT END WAS IN FLAMES. *TR

2008 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING AT 60 MPH THE BATTERY CHARGING LIGHT CAME ON. NEXT DAY TOOK CAR TO AUTO STORE TO HAVE BATTERY TESTED AND THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY. NEXT MORNING AT 2:00 AM WHILE DRIVING MY HUSBAND TO WORK, ALL LIGHTS ON PANEL STARTED COMING ON ONE AT A TIME AND CAR LOST POWER AND WE COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE FREEWAY. THE CAR IS AT THE SHOP TODAY AND MECHANICS ARE TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT HAPPENED. THEY NOTED THE BATTERY WAS BAD, BUT I JUST HAD A NEW BATTERY PUT IN AND THEY STATED THE STARTED WAS NOT BAD. WHAT IS WRONG SO I CAN GET IT FIXED. ALSO CHANGE OIL LIGHT ALWAYS COMES ON EVEN WHEN I HAVE JUST HAD THE OIL CHANGED; WHICH I DO EVERY 3,000 MILES. THE CURRENT MILEAGE ON VEHICLE IS 57,000 MILES. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING, THE VEHICLE MADE A CLUCKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL MECHANIC. THE FAILURE WAS LOCATED AT THE REAR TIE ROD AND STRUT HAVING DEFECTIVE MATERIAL. THE IGNITION ALSO FAILED AND COULD NOT BE TURNED. THE REAR TIE ROD STRUT AND IGNITION WAS REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT CONTINUED EXHIBITING A NOISE FROM THE REAR. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 74,176.

2008 DODGE CALIBER STOPPED ACCELERATING NORMALLY IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AT ABOUT 43,000 MILES (AND ABOUT 6 MONTHS AFTER I BOUGHT IT FROM A MAZDA DEALERSHIP). I TOOK IT TO SEVERAL TRANSMISSION SHOPS WHO ALL SAID THEY COULDN'T HELP, BUT HAD HEARD OF MANY SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE. I FINALLY TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR A DIAGNOSIS AND WAS TOLD THE WHOLE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED (AT ABOUT $4000). THIS DIAGNOSIS SEEMS TO BE VERY DIFFERENT FROM THE THROTTLE ISSUE THAT I'VE READ ABOUT ONLINE. I WAS TOLD IT MIGHT HURT THE POWERTRAIN FURTHER TO CONTINUE DRIVING IT, SO THE CAR IS STILL SITTING IN MY DRIVE WAY AS A NON-OP. I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW DODGE IS GETTING AWAY WITH THIS, WHEN SO MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS EXIST (MOST OF WHICH ARE WITHIN THE WARRANTY). *JS