2007 Dodge Caliber

I WAS DRIVING AND MY PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A NEW HEADLIGHT, UPON INSTALLING IT, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK, BUT THE HIGH BEAM DID. TOOK IT TO DODGE TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIGURE IT OUT AND WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CALIBERS AND CERTAIN JEEPS, THE TIPM WENT BAD ON IT AND IT WOULD BE ALMOST $1000 TO REPAIR IT, FOR A KNOWN ISSUE THAT DODGE KNOWS ABOUT BUT HASN'T BEEN RECALLED! 2 WEEKS LATER, MY HIGHBEAM EVEN WENT OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, SO NOW THE CAR IS SITTING PARKED, UNABLE TO DRIVE WITH IMPROPER LIGHTING & TIPM PROBLEMS! *TR

CAR WILL RANDOMLY START SHAKING LIKE THERE IS BARELY ANY POWER. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR TWICE. NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. NOW THE AIR BAG LIGHT IN THE CLUSTER CONSTANTLY TURNS OFF AND ON AND BEEPS WHILE THE CAR IS SHAKING. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. AFTER SOME TIME THE VEHICLE'S LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. WHEN REPLACED IT STILL DID NOT WORK. THE VEHICLE'S ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE FUNCTIONAL. WITHIN A WEEK AFTER THIS OCCURRENCE THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STARTED WITHOUT A "JUMP" AND EVEN SO WOULD LOSE POWER ONCE PARKED AND COULD NOT BE STARTED AGAIN. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE AUTO MECHANIC, SPECIFICALLY AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $700 PLUS LABOR. IN RESPONSE TO THIS I RESEARCHED THE PART AND CAME ACROSS NUMEROUS PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND THE SAME EVENTUAL DIAGNOSIS. THE CAR HAS BEEN ESSENTIALLY UNDRIVABLE AND UNSAFE. THERE WAS THE CONSTANT WORRY THAT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WOULD HAPPEN WHILE ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND CAUSE VERY UNSAFE CONDITIONS FOR MYSELF AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. IT IS MY OPINION A RECALL NEEDS TO BE ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 CALIBER R/T I'M AT ABOUT 183,000KM. EARLIER THIS WEEK ALL THE LIGHTS IN MY CLUSTER STARTED FLASHING, AND THE CHIMES STARTED SOUNDING. MY CAR WENT INTO WHAT THEY CALL "LIMP" MODE WHERE THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND THE FASTEST YOU CAN GO IS 60KM/HR ON A FLAT ROADWAY (AND IT HAS TO BUILD UP TO THAT SPEED). I WAS TOLD THAT THE CONNECTIONS TO MY TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) HAD BECOME CORRODED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED ($1000 FOR THE PART, THEN THERE'S LABOUR ON TOP OF THAT). ON TOP OF THAT I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE WIRING TO ENSURE THAT ALL THE CORROSION WAS TAKEN CARE OF, WHICH WOULD PROBABLY COST A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SEEING AS THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF WIRING THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE CHECKED. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALSO TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER/DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND THAT IT IS ALL DUE TO FAULTY DESIGN. WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO REPLACE SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART AFTER THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT I'VE HAD THE CAR. I COULD UNDERSTAND SOMETHING LIKE A GENERAL WEAR AND TEAR PART GOING, BUT TO HAVE TO FORK OUT OVER $1500 DOLLARS TO REPAIR JUST SEEMS RIDICULOUS. THE TIMP (FUSE BOX) IN THE CALIBERS FAIL FREQUENTLY (THIS IS A SAFETY DESIGN FLAW THAT NEEDS RECALLED) THE COST OF THE TIMP IS NOT CHEAP!!!!!!! *TR

I NOTICED THAT MY LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) HEADLIGHT WAS OUT. SO I REPLACED THE BULB, WHICH WOULD BE THE OBVIOUS REASON FOR THE LIGHT NOT WORKING. HOWEVER, THIS DID NOT FIX THE ISSUE. AFTER FURTHER INSPECTION AND DISCUSSION WITH A MECHANIC, IT TURNS OUT IT'S THE TIMP THAT IS BAD AND CAUSING THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT NOT TO WORK. IN ADDITION, AFTER DOING MORE RESEARCH ONLINE IT APPEARS THAT THIS ISSUE IS MORE THAN COMMON WITH THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER. I CAN'T SEE HOW A RECALL HAS NOT ALREADY BEEN FILED FOR THIS ISSUE GIVEN IT IS A HUGE SAFETY HAZARD IF ONE'S HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK AT NIGHT. IN ADDITION, IT CAUSES SOMEONE TO BE PULLED OVER. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN THE DARK BOTH OF MY LOW BEAM LIGHTS WENT OUT LEAVING ME WITH HIGH BEAMS ONLY. HAVE FOUND OUT LIKE NUMEROUS OTHER CALIBER OWNERS THAT MY TIPM NEEDS REPLACED DUE TO CORROSION AND THAT ALL THE WIRING NEEDS CHECKED FOR CORROSION AS WELL. HAVE BEEN TOLD THIS IS A COMMON OCCURRENCE WITH THE DODGE CALIBER AND THERE IS NO RECALL. SINCE I DO NOT HAVE ANY WARRANTY LEFT ON MY VEHICLE I WILL BE PAYING FOR THIS ON MY OWN IF I CHOOSE TO FIX IT. SINCE I DRIVE APPROXIMATELY 100 MILES ROUND TRIP TO WORK 5 DAYS A WEEK AND AM HAVING HEALTH ISSUES THAT REQUIRE ME TO TRAVEL TO THE DOCTOR FREQUENTLY, I WILL HAVE TO FIND A WAY TO GET THE MONEY TO FIX THIS ISSUE AS IT IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY WITH NO LOW BEAM AND I CAN'T ADJUST MY WORK SCHEDULE TO BE ABLE TO ONLY DRIVE IN THE DAY LIGHT. I WAS WONDERING HOW I WAS GOING TO AFFORD TO HAVE ANY CHRISTMAS FOR MY FAMILY BEFORE THIS DUE TO HAVING SERIOUS HEALTH ISSUES AND NOW I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO PAY FOR A PART THAT SHOULD BE RECALLED ON TOP OF THAT. *TR

I FIRST LOST THE LOW BEAM ON MY DRIVER SIDE HEAD LIGHT. I REPLACED THE BULB ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. LATER THAT DAY I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT, MY CAR THEN STALLED OUT. I PUT IT IN PARK AND RESTARTED IT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED TO FLASH THERE WAS LITTLE TO NO POWER. I MANAGED TO PULL MY CAR OFF THE ROAD PUT IT INTO PARK THEN RESTART IT AGAIN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON BUT WAS NOT FLASHING. I GOT MY CAR HOME. I COUNT MY BLESSING THAT MY CAR DIDN'T DIE WHILE GOING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. OR LOSE ALL THE LIGHTS AND CAUSE AN CRASH. I'M WORRIED TO DRIVE IT NOW BUT I HAVE NO CHOICE IF I WANT TO KEEP WORKING. THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE FROM WHAT I HAVE READ. THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED BEFORE IT KILLS PEOPLE. IT IS UNSAFE AND CAUSES THE CAR THE BECOME A DEATH TRAP FOR THE DRIVER AND ALL THE PEOPLE AROUND IT. *TR

I WAS SLOWING DOWN TO STOP AT AN INTERSECTION AND HEARD A THUMP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR. AS I STARTED TO PULL FORWARD THE STEERING WAS VERY DIFFICULT AND THE I HEARD A WHINING SOUND FROM THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I WAS ABOUT A MILE FROM MY REPAIR SHOP SO I HAD MY BROTHER FOLLOW ME WITH HIS EMERGENCY FLASHERS AND DROVE SLOWLY TO THE SHOP WHERE I FOUND OUT THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTED THROUGH. IN THE LAST YEAR, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND THE ALTERNATOR. *TR