2019 Chrysler Pacifica

On 7/16/26 vehicle would not start; high-pitched noise heard near engine during no-start diagnosis. Towed to Goldy Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram, Huntington WV. Per dealer invoice #27136: blown 500-amp main battery fuse found; after jumping past fuse, white smoke from exhaust and no coolant in system, diagnosed as blown head gasket. Repair: both-side head gasket replacement plus fuse assembly. Vehicle in shop 7+ weeks, returned 9/4/26 with new unresolved issue: strong smell of burned electronics and antifreeze in cabin. All failed components available for inspection upon request. Safety risk: head gasket failure/coolant intrusion caused engine hydrolock, a sudden uncommanded loss of engine power that can occur without warning, including while driving in traffic. Burned-electronics smell raises electrical/fire risk; antifreeze odor raises cabin fume exposure and window-fogging visibility concerns. Confirmed by dealer: Yes. Goldy diagnosed and documented the fuse failure, coolant loss, and head gasket failure in writing, and performed the repair. Manufacturer/police/insurance inspection: Not by police or insurance. Spoke by phone with a Chrysler HQ rep 5 times (8/13-9/1/26) who was informed; no confirmed independent physical inspection by manufacturer beyond dealer's own diagnosis. Warning signs: P0304 misfire on cylinder 3 appeared first, progressing to complete no-start with high-pitched noise, prompting the tow-in and hydrolock diagnosis.

As I pulled up to stop, in electric mode, at a stop light, the display screen pulled up a message to pull over safely because the engine would stop soon, within about 10 seconds the screen showed the engine stopped. I was still at the light. I tried restarting the vehicle, moving the shifter from drive to park and back, pressing the park button several times with no success. With cars honking behind me, I got out of the car, told them my car had died and asked them to drive around me. I got back in the car, repeated the actions a few times and the car started in electric mode. I drove home (about 5 miles) without incident. Check engine light was on. I pulled 2 codes U0412 and U029a. I have had the U0412 code a few times before with only the check engine light coming on. It would go away in a day or two (no check engine light and no code). U029a is new.

Dash warning came on saying safely slown and pull over, car will shut off soon. Didn't have a safe place to pull over and eventually the whole car shut down and all electronics went out no steering, no gear shifting, No way to put in park. I was lucky to be on a somewhat sife road to pull over to side do safely get the car off the road so it would not get rear ended from other cars. The warning to shut down was like 1-2 minutes. Tried turning car back on but no power anywhere. Was able to jump car with portable battery power supply, but when trying to shift the into drive to move to a safe spot, even if just into nurtal and push, all the gears (R, N, D, L) were blinking and when you turned to any position it immediately went back to park. Wait waited 10 minutes, retried and was able to get into drive. There was now a check engine light on and a P! Light. Immediately drive to closest dealership (20 miles away) with no issues and they said there were like 120 codes and they couldn't assess them as their electrician was not working and there was no other dealer or shop around to do this. I drove back to my residence and there were no errors and the check engine light and P! Light went off. This pull over and stop warning has come on periodically over the past 2onths but the car never stopped. I was always able to pull over, stop the car and restart and the warnings went away and I would not have any issues for more than a week. All batteries (main and aux are both brand new).

The entire electrical system is messed up. There will be times it works fine but all of a sudden while driving the odometer will switch between mph and kilometers, it'll change the screen, heated seats/steering wheel will turn on or off, it'll change the air system, the stop/start frequently goes out, we've had to replace both batteries and within a few months are having to replace both again. The transmission has a lot of issues as well and it's not safe while driving it'll "jump" or stall while shifting gears.

2019 Chrysler Pacifica. The vehicle has ongoing steering, electrical, and power steering/EPS failures. The steering wheel intermittently jerks/pulls while driving, the vehicle has experienced random loss of steering assist, and the electrical system cuts out or malfunctions during normal use. The steering wheel lights and backup camera guidelines also disappear during driving sessions and only return after fully restarting the vehicle. The exact root cause is UNKNOWN, but the affected systems appear to include the EPS/power steering system, steering/suspension components, battery/electrical system, and possibly related control modules. My safety and others’ safety were put at risk because the vehicle has lost steering assist and had electrical failure while being driven, including a prior failure in an intersection. When the steering assist drops or the wheel jerks, the vehicle becomes difficult to control. This is especially dangerous because I transport my family in this vehicle. The issue has been reported repeatedly since purchase. The vehicle was inspected/repaired through Carvana/SilverRock’s repair process at Brockman Automotive, including rack and pinion/steering-related work. After that repair, the vehicle continued to drift and handle improperly. A later independent inspection at Davidson Automotive identified a loose/not properly secured tie rod, alignment problems, and a failed auxiliary battery. The shop could not complete deeper diagnostics until those prerequisite issues were corrected. The vehicle has also suffered abnormal front tire wear after the steering/alignment problems. Warning/symptoms before or during failures include steering wheel jerking/pulling, clunking/clanking/grinding/groaning noises, vehicle drift, service start/stop warning, electrical malfunctions, intermittent steering wheel control/light issues, loss of backup camera guidelines, and loss of steering assist. The vehicle/component is available for inspection upon request.

2019 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid experienced a serious charging system failure during routine overnight charging using a standard Level 2 home charger that had previously worked without issue. In the morning, the charging connector was physically trapped in the vehicle charge port and could not be removed despite repeated normal troubleshooting attempts, including repeated unlock cycles, charger power cycling, breaker reset, and reseating attempts. Because the Pacifica Hybrid disables operation while a charging connector is detected, the vehicle became completely undrivable and required towing. Multiple AAA tow operators were unable to move the vehicle normally. We ultimately had to personally research and guide the tow operators through the manual neutral override procedure in order to get the vehicle into neutral and onto the tow truck. The dealership has suggested that the connector may have fused or arced together during charging and is attempting to characterize the situation as “not the vehicle’s fault.” Regardless of the precise electrical mechanism, this event occurred during ordinary intended use of the vehicle’s charging system. The end result was that the vehicle trapped the connector, immobilized itself, and stranded the owner without any meaningful owner-accessible recovery method. This is not ordinary wear and tear or a cosmetic inconvenience. This was a charging-system immobilization event involving a vehicle platform that already has a documented history of charging-system recalls and software-related charging concerns. The vehicle was being used exactly as intended. No misuse, modification, or improper operation occurred. A vehicle shouldn't become completely inoperable during routine charging. I am requesting review of this matter as a significant charging-system failure and requesting goodwill assistance regarding the substantial diagnostic and repair costs now being imposed on the customer for an event that occurred during normal operation.

There was a clicking noise coming from under the dash. This flapping may have been going on for years. I only took in the car after a passenger noted that this noise was something abnormal. Others have noted that this will drain the secondary battery and I have had to have that battery replaced. The dealership said it would be five hundred dollars to replace the recirc door actuator (98258 B105D). They charged me $99.95 in labor to diagnose it. I bought a replacement part myself and replaced it myself. I disassembled what was supposed to be the faulty part, but found all gears perfectly fine. I noticed there were no issues related to the recirc door itself. The replacement part worked fine until the next day, when I pushed the passenger door lock button and the flapping noise resumed. I ran the old recirc motor disconnected from the recirc door and noticed that it exhibited a flapping behavior independent of whether or not it was actually attached to the door. This indicates a programming issue, not a physical issue.

This has been ever since I got my van. Sometime when I drive my lights come on and it goes into limp mode. Most of the time. When I start my van my lights will turn on. I have to turn my car off . Then start again to get my van riding correctly. The other day I was making a U-turn and my engine stalled and I was almost hit by a truck.

The vehicle jerked, stopped and would not start again. After a while it started, people were honking to move. This happened about 3 years ago. The vehicle jerks often and afraid it will leave us on the street. About 2 years ago, the auxiliary battery ran down the main battery. The car would not start. Had to buy both batteries. The lights come on, engine, traction and auxiliary battery light. This happens often on a weekly basis.