1998 Chrysler Cirrus

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 1998 CHRYSLER CIRRUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE ENGINE MISFIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT THERE WAS A CLICKING NOISE AND THE BALL JOINTS WERE PREMATURELY WORN. IN ADDITION, THE SUSPENSION WAS UNSTABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION WHERE THE FAILURE WAS NOT ABLE TO BE REPLICATED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE KEY FAILED TO TURN INTO THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WERE NOT AVAILABLE.

I BOUGHT MY CAR IN FEB 2014 USED WITH A LITTLE UNDER 70,000 MILES. OVERALL THE VEHICLE WAS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION WITH A FEW MINOR PAINT ISSUES. WITHIN THE 1ST WEEK OF BUYING IT I NOTICED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD COME ON AND ACT LIKE IT WOULD STALL, OR WOULD ACTUALLY STALL ALL TOGETHER ONCE COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE SCARIEST IS WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY & THE CAR LOOSES ALL POWER! I HAVE LEARNED IS IF I THROW IT INTO NEUTRAL THEN THE POWER WILL COME BACK UP & I DON'T HAVE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP MOST OF THE TIMES. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO MY MECHANIC WHO I HAVE USED FOR OVER 10 YRS & HE STILL HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND THE CAUSE, HE SAID THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE IS COMING BACK AS THE PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH (WHICH WOULD BE THE TRANSMISSION AND COSTLY AND COULD NOT GUARANTEE THIS WOULD FIX THE PROBLEM). LAST WEEK MY CAR DIED & I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED SINCE IT WOULD NOT START. ENDED UP BEING THE FUEL PUMP, BUT WHEN THEY PUT THE NEW FUEL PUMP, THE PCM SHORTED IT OUT SO THAT ENDED UP BEING REPLACED AS WELL AS THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR . HE THOUGHT THIS WOULD HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM BUT SADLY IT IS STILL HAPPENING :( THIS IS VERY FRUSTRATING TO SEE THAT SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME ISSUE AND YET CHRYSLER IS STILL NOT ISSUING A RECALL FOR THIS. WHEN SOMEONE LIKE ME HAS A KID(S), IT MAKES IT VERY SCARY EVERY TIME YOU GET IN TO DRIVE NOT KNOWING WHAT WILL HAPPEN. AS A SINGLE PARENT, I CAN NOT KEEP PUTTING IN THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS FOR A PROBLEM THAT SHOULD HAVE ALREADY BEEN IDENTIFIED AND RECALLED AND FIXED. I HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR ALMOST A YEAR AND STILL WONT DRIVE OUTSIDE OF ORLANDO FOR THE FEAR OF BREAKING DOWN TOO FAR FROM HOME. PLEASE FIND WHAT IS CAUSING THIS AND RECALL SO I CAN STOP THROWING MONEY AWAY ON SENSELESS FIXES!! *TR

MY 1998 CHRYSLER CIRRUS WITH ONLY 75000 MILES ON IT WAS SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY FOR 5+ HOURS, NOT RUNNING (KEYS INSIDE MY HOME) AND IT CAUGHT ON FIRE. THE FIRE WAS DEEMED TO BE AN ELECTRICAL SHORT SOMEWHERE IN THE DRIVERS DOOR PANEL, POSSIBLE THE ELECTRIC MIRROR LOCATION SWITCH. NO ACCIDENTS WITH THIS CAR, NO MODIFICATIONS WHERE DONE, EVERYTHING IS (WAS) STOCK AS IT ROLLED OFF THE ASSEMBLY LINE IN 1998. MY DAUGHTER RECEIVED A SLIGHT BURN PUTTING THE FIRE OUT. THE CAR IS A COMPLETE LOSE BUT DID NOT BURN COMPLETELY. *TR

I HAVE A 1998 CHRYSLER CIRRUS WITH 84,730 MILES ON IT. THIS CAR KEEPS SHUTTING OFF WHILE I AM DRIVING. I'VE BEEN TOLD I NEED TO REPLACE THE COMPUTER, THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM, CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT SENSORS, NEW BATTERY- YOU NAME IT I'VE BEEN TOLD. NOW MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AS WELL AS MY OIL LIGHT AND NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE! THE FOLLOWING WEBSITE, WWW.CARSURVEY.ORG/REVIEWS/CHRYSLER/CIRRUS/R64403/COMMENTS/PAGE-5/, HAS A LIST OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS VEHICLE AND THE SAME PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE EXPERIENCED- SUDDEN STOP SYNDROME. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ABOUT THIS CAR BECAUSE I HAVE FOUR CHILDREN AND I DO NOT LIKE RISKING OUR LIVES, BUT IT IS MY ONLY MODE OF TRANSPORTATION. I CANNOT AFFORD TO MAKE THESE COSTLY REPAIRS, ESPECIALLY WHEN NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG. THE BRAKE PEDAL BECOMES HARD TO OPERATE AND IF I GO UNDER 15 MPH, IT WILL SHUT OFF. SOMETIMES IT WON'T EVEN TURN BACK ON FOR AT LEAST 10-15 MINUTES. I THOUGHT I WAS THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS PROBLEM, BUT I'M NOT AND CHRYSLER NEEDS TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE! *TR

CAR STOPS WHILE DRIVING AND ALSO DOESN'T START ON SOME DAYS AND NOT OTHERS. YOU CAN BE GOING 60MPH ON THE HIGHWAY AND CAR WILL STOP FOR NO REASON AND THEN START UP AGAIN AFTER SITTING FOR A WHILE. I'VE HAD AN ENGINE CODE READING WITH NO CODES SHOWING. REPLACED BATTERY, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, PLUME GASKET, CRANK SHAFT SENSOR, ROTOR CAP AND BUTTON. I AM NOW GETTING A "NO BUS" READING WHEN IT WON'T START. IT'S GETTING A SPARK AND TRIES TO TURN OVER. I HAVE LOOKED UP THIS PROBLEM AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME PROBLEM WITH NOBODY KNOWING, INCLUDING THE DEALERSHIPS, AS TO HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. IF SOMETHING IS NOT DONE SOON, SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE FROM THIS. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR 4 MONTHS WITH THREE TRIPS TO THE SHOP. IT WILL DRIVE FINE FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS AND THEN YOU GO TO START IT AND IT WON'T. OR YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY OR REGULAR STREETS AND THE CAR WILL STOP. IT'S SCARY WHEN YOU HAVE A SEMI ON YOUR BEHIND FLYING AT YOU AND ALL YOU CAN DO IS PRAY THAT YOU CAN GET OVER TO SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY WITH YOUR CAR WHEN IT'S STOPPED. THIS IS A RECIPE FOR DISASTER. PLEASE HELP. PLEASE LOOK THIS UP ON THE INTERNET WITH A GOOGLE SEARCH AND SEE THAT THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM FOR SO MANY CONSUMERS OF THIS CAR. THERE REALLY SHOULD BE A RECALL. *TR

DT: ON JULY 3 THE CONSUMER'S VEHICLE CAUGHT FIRE. THE INSURANCE COMPANY HIRED AN INVESTIGATOR AND THEY FOUND IT STARTED ON THE LOCK ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. THE POLICE AND FIRE DEPARTMENT WERE BOTH CALLED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN IN USE FOR FOUR HOURS. THE FIRE ORIGINATED ON THE UPPER FRONT OF THE LEFT DOOR TRIM PANEL ADJACENT TO THE DASH. THE FIRE ORIGINATED AT THE LOCATION OF THE POWER MIRROR AND LOCK SWITCHES ON THE UPPER FRONT OF THE DOOR TRIM PANEL. IT IS EVIDENT THAT THE FIRE WAS CAUSED BY A MALFUNCTION THAT CAUSED HIGH RESISTANCE HEATING IN ONE OF THE SWITCHES. THE EXACT SWITCH THAT CAUSED THE OVERHEATING COULD NOT BE DETERMINED BECAUSE OF THE FIRE DAMAGE. *JB THE FOLLOWING ARE INCIDENTS THAT OCCURRED BEFORE THE FIRE: THE VEHICLE WOULD TAKE UP TO TEN MINUTES BEFORE IT WOULD CATCH. THE VEHICLE WOULD LOSE POWER AT TIMES. THE DEALER REPLACED THE SOLENOID WHICH MAY HAVE NOT OF CURED THE PROBLEM. A FEW DAYS AFTER THE SOLENOID REPLACEMENT, THE PROBLEM RECURRED. THE DEALER PLACED A NEW DISTRIBUTOR IN THE VEHICLE AND STATED THAT THE WIRES NEED TO BE REPLACED. *SC

1.COMPLETE ELECTRICAL FAILURE WHILE SPEED WAS AT 45MPH CAUSED FULL BRAKE PRESSURE TO BE APPLIED TO VEHICLE IN TRAFFIC. VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART. I WAS INFORMED AFTER SERVICE A BOLT WAS MISSING HAVING SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE ALTERNATOR. I ASKED WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS. THE RESPONSE FROM THE SERVICE ADVISOR WAS "IT PROBABLY WAS NEVER TIGHTENED ON AT THE FACTORY." 2. FOG LIGHTS FAILED TWICE FIRST TIME I WAS TOLD "THE SAUDERING AT THE JUNCTION SOMETIMES DOES LAST LONG INITIALLY" THE SECOND FAILURE IS UNRESOLVED 3. DASH INSTRUMENT PANEL ILLUMINATION FAILURE IS UNRESOLVED.