2014 Chevrolet Spark

PURCHASED VEHICLE IN 2014 BRAND NEW. THE RADIO SCREEN SAID CHECK ANTENNA WHEN ON XM (WE HAD A FREE TRIAL BUT IT WOULDN'T WORK) SO WE TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP FOR DIAGNOSIS, WHERE THEY SAID THERE WAS A CHAFED WIRE BEHIND RADIO. THEY REPAIRED BUT RADIO STILL DIDN'T WORK CORRECTLY, AND SO THEY REPLACED THE ENTIRE RADIO, THIS WAS IN 2015. NOW IT'S 2019, AND SOMETIMES THE CAR WON'T START, THE SIGNAL CHIMES WON'T MAKE SOUNDS AND THE RADIO WILL NOT TURN ON, RANDOM LIGHTS COME ON IN THE DASH - INCLUDING A FAILURE LIGHT ABOUT THE AIRBAGS, AND A BRAKE LIGHT WENT OUT AT THE SAME TIME. WE HAD THE KEY CHIME RECALL COMPLETED, BUT THIS ISSUE OCCURRED ANYWAY. WE REPLACED THE KEY FOB BATTERIES, THE CAR WOULD STILL NOT START RANDOMLY. WE TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER AGAIN AND THEY SAID THE ISSUE WAS MOST LIKELY DUE TO A LOOSE BATTERY CABLE - IT WAS REPAIRED. NOW A MONTH LATER, THE RADIO AGAIN DOESN'T WORK AGAIN AND THE SOUNDS IN THE CAR (SIGNALS,ETC) DON'T WORK AGAIN, AND WE EXPECTED THE CAR NOT TO START AGAIN SINCE THOSE WERE THE SIGNS THAT OCCURRED BEFORE IT WOULDN'T START. WE TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER, THEY SAY THE RADIO DOESN'T WORK AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE 2ND TIME THE RADIO HAS BEEN REPLACED IN 4 YEARS. ELECTRICAL ISSUES HAVE BEEN A PROBLEM SINCE THE DAY WE BOUGHT IT. . I STRONGLY BELIEVE THERE IS SOMETHING MAJORLY WRONG WITH THE ELECTRICAL MAKEUP OF THIS VEHICLE AND THAT THE RADIO NOT WORKING/ CAUSING OTHER PROBLEMS, IS JUST AN UNDERLYING ISSUE BEING CAUSED BY SOMETHING GREATER. PLEASE HELP.

TAKATA RECALL. MY '14 SPARK HAS GOTTEN THE COOLANT TANK REPLACED TWICE. ALSO MY RPMS ARE SHOOTING UP AND BACK DOWN ONCE I HIT 50MPH OR FASTER . ALSO MAKES A HIGH PITCHED NOISE WHEN THIS HAPPENS . IT'S CAUSING MY CAR TO JERK AT FASTER SPEEDS, ALSO MY CAR JERKS AT POINT OF ACCELERATION FROM 0MPH WHEN I'M MAKING TURNS. ALSO THE BATTERY IS CONTINUALLY BEING DRAINED AND IT'S NOT WORN OUT .

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET SPARK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GAUGES FAILED TO OPERATE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO YOUNG CHEVROLET (9301 E R L THORNTON FWY, DALLAS, TX 75228, (469) 294-3000) WHERE THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE WAS CHANGED AND REFLASHED. THE DEALER ALSO INSTALLED A NEW AIR CONDITIONING CONTROL MODULE. A WEEK LATER, THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MALFUNCTIONED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER DID NOT ASSIST SINCE THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

SINCE I RECEIVED THE TRANSMISSION SAFETY RECALL AND TOOK MY VEHICLE IN, IT SEEMS LIKE THEY MADE MY VEHICLE WORSE. IT WORKED PERFECTLY BEFORE THE RECALL AND NOW IT SEEMS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS GOING OUT. ALSO SEEMS LIKE MY BRAKES LOCK WHILE I'M DRIVING AND IF I PRESS ON THE BRAKES THEY ENGAGE VERY BADLY. IT MAKES ME JUMP FORWARD.

CAR LOST POWER AND TOOK LONGER TO ACCELERATE THAN NORMAL WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT. MY CAR'S DASHBOARD SHOWED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, REDUCED ENGINE POWER LIGHT AND A LOSS OF TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT. A CAR DIAGNOSTIC RECOMMENDED TO CHANGE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WHICH I HAVE DONE WITH NO SUCCESS. A DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSTIC SAID THERE WAS FAULTY WIRING WHICH WOULD COST $600 TO FIX. I HAVE NOT GONE THROUGH WITH THE REPAIRS AS OF YET. I HAVE MET AT LEAST 2 OTHER PEOPLE THAT HAVE THIS PROBLEM.

THE ENGINE COOLANT/ANTI-FREEZE RESERVOIR LEAKS. ***IT ONLY LEAKS WHEN DRIVING*** I REALIZED THIS WHEN DOING AN INSPECTION BEFORE A LONG DRIVE (CAR WAS STATIONARY). WHEN I INSPECTED UNDER THE HOOD I COULD SEE RESIDUE FROM A LEAK AND SMELL THE COOLANT. I FILLED IT AND THE NEXT DAY IT WAS EMPTY AGAIN, AFTER DRIVING 11 HOURS BETWEEN 2 DAYS. NO LIGHT INDICATORS ARE PRESENT OR FLASHING. A FEW EVENINGS AGO SOME COOLANT MUST HAVE LEAKED ONTO OR NEXT TO THE ENGINE BECAUSE THERE WAS A SMALL AMOUNT OF SMOKE COMING FROM UNDER MY HOOD. WHEN TYPING 2014 CHEVY SPARK ANTIFREEZE LEAK INTO GOOGLE, THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS. EVERYONE IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE IN THE SAME PLACE. PLEASE HAVE THIS RECALLED.

ON 17 SEP 2018 WHILE GOING 60 MPH ON I-65, THE VEHICLE STARTED BEEPING, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED FLASHING, THE DOORS STARTED LOCKING AND UNLOCKING ON THEIR OWN, THE FUEL GAUGE WENT FROM HALF A TANK TO EMPTY AND THE VEHICLE STARTED TO LOSE POWER. PRESSING THE GAS WOULD NOT MAKE THE CAR GO FASTER; MY CAR SLOWED TO 40 MPH AND STAYED AT THAT SPEED FOR TWO MINUTES AND THEN LOST POWER COMPLETELY. I HAD TO CUT OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO PREVENT MYSELF FROM GETTING INTO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT (AN IDLE CAR ON AN EIGHT LANE INTERSTATE WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN A GOOD TIME), TURNED THE VEHICLE OFF AND THEN WAITED 5 MINUTES. I TURNED THE VEHICLE BACK ON, AND IT RAN FOR AN ADDITIONAL FIVE MINUTES BEFORE HAVING THE SAME SYMPTOMS. REPEAT ONE MORE TIME AND I WAS ABLE TO MAKE IT HOME SAFELY. THE NEXT DAY, 18 SEP 2018, I HAD IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC WHO SAID THAT BASED ON ODB2 SCAN ON THE VEHICLE THAT THE ENGINE COMPUTER WASN'T TALKING TO ANY OF THE OTHER SYSTEMS AND THAT THEY COULDN'T FIX THIS PROBLEM; IT HAD TO BE TAKEN TO A DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP SAID THEY HAVE TO RUN A WIRE TRACE TO FIGURE OUT WHICH WIRE IS SHORTING OUT THE SYSTEM.